Friday, August 28, 2009

Home Design Ideas to Create a Home of Energy Saving "Green" Beauty

We live in a new world. The time for paying attention to our natural resources is now. We have woken to the realization that our world is not the inexhaustible support system we believed it to be.

Thankfully "going green" does not require extreme and costly changes. Making a significant difference in the worlds natural resources, only takes small decisions made one step at a time. We can decide to:

Recycle
Reuse
Restore
Reduce

With these 4 words in mind we have a few of the most wonderful ideas, tips and secrets to present. Simple and affordable going green ideas. And, if you choose to implement any or all of these suggestions you can be assured you are contributing to the over all health of the earth now and toward a more sustainable living environment for our future generations.

1. Going Green by Changing Your Lights. If every household in the U.S. replaced just one light bulb from the standard incandescent to the highly energy efficient luminescent bulbs being promoted today we would

Save A national average of $600,000,000. a year in energy costs.

Save Enough energy to light more than 3,000,000 homes for one year.

Save Green house gases equivalent to the emissions given off from over 800,000 cars.

Save Significant amounts on your energy bill. My husband spent one day replacing all the bulbs in our home. Not totally convinced it would make that much of a difference on our bill I supported his efforts more for the conservation aspects (and because he had turned off the TV) rather than the money saving pitch.

Boy was I surprised when the next electric bill came,

it dropped approximately 20%! or about 10 cents per

hour!

This change in bulb has one characteristic that may take some time getting used to. When you first turn on the lights - they appear dingy due to the fact they need to warm up a bit before they are at peak - light up the room - performance. They also initially cost a bit more but the standard life span far outlasts the basic bulb - from months to years.

Another energy saving tip is to install dimmer switches. Years ago these dimmers did not provide any benefit other than creating ambient light in a room. Today they are designed to minimize your electric consumption as well.

2. Going Green by Choosing an Eco Friendly Floor. If you are planning to replace your floor with hard wood there are two options that are delightfully green, look beautiful, perform well, and cost less than most hard woods.
Cork - Cork has come a long way from its original purpose of wine stopping.

It comes from the bark of a tree that can be harvested once every 10 years and does no damage to the tree at all. Like sheering a sheep! It's typically sold in tile or sheet form and is easy to install. Because cork contains millions of air bubbles - it is comfortable to walk on and easier on the feet when standing for long periods of time in the kitchen. It is also hypoallergenic, absorbs sounds, and acts as a thermal insulator which means warmth on the feet.

There are fabulous color and grain options available today so be sure to shop around!

There are a few drawbacks to consider. Cork does need to be sealed to moisture protect and is not very resistant to fading or punctures however, it does bounce back well when a heavy blunt object is dropped on it.

The other floor covering option is Bamboo - bamboo is definitely more competitive if you need a harder wood floor. Harder than oak yet it is made from a fast growing Asian grass that matures in about 6 years. It can be refinished numerous times with dye-based stains. Very eco-friendly.

Bamboo also offers a wonderful variety of color, grain and style. Have fun looking for the color and grain of this beautiful hard wood option. Did I mention it's priced lower than most oak options?

3. Going Green by Recycling or Restoring Your Furniture. Must you buy new furniture or can you refinish, restore, repaint or recycle?

Wonderful design projects can result from painting, restaining or reupholstering that piece that
is dated or worn. The most exciting aspect of recycling furniture is the money saved.

Sandpaper, paint and associated supplies are relatively inexpensive. Door knobs, drawer pulls can
really change up the look of that tired piece of furniture also with minimum expense. A picture says a thousand words especially in this case. Visit the web site listed below to see some fantastic examples of these furniture restoring options.

Design applications usually last about 10 years. The neutral - earthy colors we have been seeing so often has been around since the late 90's so it's on its way out. This year you will start seeing bold, bright colors being applied to accent walls, furniture and textures. So, don't be afraid to experiment with color, fabric textures and brush techniques. This is the year for bold, bright and beautiful! Go for it.

Another idea you may want to entertain is a fantastic option to buy "slightly used" from your local Good Will or Salvation Army. With a bit of frugal redesign "know how" you can create remarkable results.

4. Going Green by Buying Energy Star Appliances. Energy Star is the U.S. Governments Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy Seal of approval system to confirm a products ability to avoid/limit greenhouse gases without sacrificing quality.

When you purchase an Energy Star item you can be assured you have a product that will reduce energy consumption and save you money when used in your home, guaranteed through the entire life span of the appliance.

2007 stats from www.energystar.gov reports that consumers "saved enough energy in 2007 alone to avoid greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to those from 27 million cars - all while saving $16,000,000,000. (16 Billion) on their utility bills.

Wow - Good Job! Let's keep up the good work!

Sue Krippner is a Free Lance Artist, Home Staging and Redesign Professional. She is attracted to "all things beautiful, especially as it relates to interior decorating and design. Visit http://frugalhomedesign.com to see samples of her art and find plenty of professional design, tips hints and secrets to help facilitate your personal interior design goals with money saving frugal flair.

Save Money on Air Conditioning Costs

Many people don't realize that their cooling system is one of the biggest energy guzzlers in their home (second only to their heating system, depending on where their live). If you have an old air conditioning system with a SEER rating of less than 8, it may be worthwhile to consider replacing it with a more energy efficient system. Generally speaking you should be able to recoup the cost in just a few years.

So what exactly is SEER? SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio and is a measure of the cooling efficiency of your air conditioner or heat pump. The higher the SEER number, the more efficient the system is at converting electricity into cooling power.

Matching your AC unit size to your needs is important, too. An air conditioning unit that is too big for the room will work harder and cost you more.

It's also important to remember that because your AC unit can be such an energy guzzler reducing your AC bill helps more then just you and your checking account - it also helps the environment. When the average US household uses 9,000 killowatt hours a year any reduction in power usage helps the environment. Consider this - generating 9,000 killowatt hours of electricity generates as much pollution as driving 13,392 miles in a car.

Here are some more fast, free and easy ways to lower your air conditioning bill.

  • Close drapes on the sunny side of your house.
  • Close off rooms that you aren't using and the cooling ducts to those rooms.
  • Turn off lights when not in use - because lights produce heat they make your air conditioning system work harder (and cost more).
  • Turn off your computer and other home office equipment - because they generate heat as well.

If you can afford to invest a little money into your AC existing system you have a few more options. You can:

  • Install a programmable thermostat (preferably one that offers zone control)
  • Check and replace your filters regularly, a dirty filter can actually cost be costing you money each month.
  • Install aftermarket energy saving devices such as a Cool-N-Save(tm)

Remember because your AC unit has the potential to draw so much electricity by maintaining and optimizing your current system you can reap substantial financial benefits.

Sam Greyhawk is an energy efficiency evangelist who works for Cool-N-Save(tm), an Energy Star Partner, in Huntington Beach, California. The Cool-N-Save can save you up to 30% each month on your AC electric bill.

Paper Towels - 3,000 Tons of Landfill Waste Each Day

With over 90% of US households taking advantage of the convenience of paper towels we produce over 3,000 tons of waste each day. Is this problem insurmountable? No - if each home simply replaced one roll of their traditional paper towels with paper towels made from recycled paper, we could avoid wasting 3.4 million cubic feet of landfill space and prevent 864,000 trees from being cut down.

The Benefits of Recycled Paper Towels

By using recycled paper towels we are doing much more than just reducing landfill waste. According to Ideal Bite, "For every ton of 100% recycled paper that is bought, about 4000kWh of energy and 7,000 gallons of water are saved. It also avoids releasing 60 lbs of pollutants into the air."

Reducing Paper Towel Waste

Even using recycled paper towels people tend to have wasteful habits. What can you do to graciously help remind people to reduce their paper towel consumption? You can participate in campaigns against consumer paper waste. It is these very wasteful habits that motivate projects like "These Come From Trees."

"Remember... These Come From Trees"

According to the "These Come From Trees" blog they are an "experiment in environmentalism, viral marketing, and user interface design with the goal of reducing consumer waste paper!" What exactly is this "experiment?" Using low cost vinyl stickers and guerilla marketing tactics the ad-hoc "The Come From Trees" team spread the message of reducing consumer paper waste. Here is a breakdown of their strategy:

  • People just like you affix vinyl "Remember... These Come From Trees" stickers to public area paper towel dispensers.

That's it. To quote the These Come From Trees Blog, it really is amazing "how the right message at the right time can make the difference." Since each sticker includes a URL for people to visit (http://www.thesecomefromtrees.com/) they help promote public awareness to this growing issue.

How Effective Are Projects Like This?

According to testing completed by the These Come From Trees team, their awareness stickers can reduce paper towel consumption by up to 15%, they continue, stating each sticker can save about 100 lbs of paper a year which is the equivalent to one tree. When you consider that the average coffee shop uses around 1000 lbs of paper towels and the average fast food restaurant with two restrooms can use up to 2000 lbs a year, 15% can add up to a lot of savings.

What about Reusable Replacements for Paper Towels?

Even though paper towels are commonplace they are not the only solution, products made of cotton or linen can be washed and reused many times over. In some cases sponges which offer a longer product lifetime, can handle the work you may normally relegate to a paper towel.

Choosing the Best Option for the Situation

While you can easily control your options at home and guerilla projects like "Remember... These Come From Trees" remind people to reduce their usage in public areas, it's important to always understand the best option for each situation you find yourself in - environmentally speaking.

If you are drying your hands and have the choice between an electric hand dryer and paper towels, what is the best choice for the environment? While electric hand dryers have the environmental cost of the electricity used to power them, in terms of overall energy costs, solid waste, maintenance and janitorial costs, electric hand dryers are more efficient than paper towels. While electric hand dryers are continually improved by manufacturers and continue to get more energy efficient, the paper towel has, for all intents and purposes, reached it's plateau.

Reduce, Reuse and Recycle

While you are constantly bombarded by the three R's, "Reduce, Reuse and Recycle," this is yet another case where the three R's offer society the best solution. By reducing our paper towel usage, we can prevent more trees from being cut down and prevent the emissions created by the manufacturing of new paper. By moving towards more reusable options such as washable cloth, we can stop the cycle of waste completely. By purchasing recycling paper products and recycling our paper products at the end of their lives we can conserve our valuable natural resources and reduce emissions.

Convenience items such as paper towels began as a luxury, became commonplace and now are subject to mass abuse. Who pays the cost for this abuse? The environment. By making smarter choices we can reduce the paper waste we contribute to and recycle our existing paper products. With an ever growing population and a static land size we are faced with the sobering prospect of running out of our precious natural resources. Do you part by remembering to conserve what and where you can.

Sam Greyhawk is an energy efficiency evangelist working with Cool-N-Save(tm), an Energy Star Partner, based in Huntington Beach, California.

Cool-N-Save(tm) is an amazing new energy efficiency add-on for air conditioners and aircon units. It can be installed in only 10 minutes with no tools required. In the hottest summer months, your air conditioner can be responsible for up to 90% of your electric bill each month. Cool-N-Save(tm), an air conditioner mister, has been scientifically proven by Tulane University to improve air conditioner efficiency by up to 30% - which translates into real monthly savings for you. Saving energy helps fight global warming and Cool-N-Save(tm) is a cost effective way to reduce your energy use.

Solar Water Heater Sytems

In general, solar water heater systems can be more costly to purchase and setup than standard gas or electric water heating systems. However, by using a solar heater you will definitely save money on the long run.. By selecting to use solar energy technology you can expect to save around 50 to 80% on your electricity bills.

Gathering energy coming from the sun to heat water is not a new idea at all. Such technology using solar power for heating water exists since the year 1800. Producing warm water with solar energy can be employed about every where in the world and the sun and some special equipment is the only thing needed.

The key parts of a solar water heater are the solar collectors that grab and concentrate the energy coming from the sun and the storage tank. Such simple setup is usually called passive solar power. When mechanical and electrical devices such electric pumps are installed in the system to push the water it is then called solar active. To keep the water hot for long period of time a good insulation should be made to the storage tank.

Usually you will find two types of solar water heater: the two-tank and the one-tank and solar collectors exist in quite a few designs but in general glazed flat-plate collectors are widely used on solar water heater systems. Solar collectors can be fixed on the roof of your house or on the ground and in both cases, for best performance they should preferably be pointing south.

Installing a solar water heater will not cover all your hot water needs this is why you also need a traditional electric or gas water heater for days of bad weather where there is no sunshine. Despite this little inconvenient you can expect to make substantial savings.

Armand Hadife is the owner of
http://www.outdoor-solar- lights.com
http://www.home-solar-systems.com
http://www.wind-power-generator.com

Homemade Solar Panels - Why Use Free Renewable Solar Energy to Power Your Home?

The question above already speaks of the bountiful benefits that solar energy bequeaths us. Building your own solar panels can be a great way to cut your exorbitant monthly utility bills at least by half as well as allows you to do your part for the environment. Solar power is free and renewable and the conversion process releases zero toxic emissions into our environment. And the process can also be a fun and enjoyable experience for yourself and the entire family too.

You will derive great benefits when you start adopting your very own residential solar power to drive your home appliances. You will soon see your utility bills reduced by at least 80 percent constantly almost the moment you put your solar power system to use, not to mention that this is a renewable and sustainable source of energy throughout its lifespan. You will no longer be at the mercy of the ever rising energy prices. This way, you are slowly but surely liberated from non-renewable power sources, have the freedom to own and use your power as you see fit and be wean off power outages for a long time to come. On top of all this, you are doing your bit to fight global warming reduce your carbon footprint and even be eligible for green energy tax credits.

And while the cons of expensive solar panels used to deter people from adopting solar power for homes, it is no longer so with the advent of a few good manuals currently available in the market. The good guides can literally teaches you the entire process from creating, assembly and installation of your homemade solar panels. Note that you should look out for guides with very specific how to do instructions and design diagrams, directions on where and how to find the required components and materials. The good guides comes with thorough step by step videos that walk you through the critical stages and even comes with member discussion forums for experience sharing and further coaching.

Homemade solar panels will cost you less than 200 dollar per panel to create and you can immediately use them to power your home. Compare this to ready made solar panels setting you back by 3000 dollars per panel, building your own solar panels system is a steal.

So if you are ready to slash your utility bills by at least half, and build your very own homemade solar power system, start searching for that home made solar power guide now.

Join the thousands of families tapping on Free Renewable Energy. Visit SolarWindEnergyDIY.com for Your Complete Solar Power Guide Review.

Also Find more information here to Build Your Own Solar Panels and Save 80 percent on Your Electricity Bills.

Earth4Energy Manual Review - Earth4Energy Scam?

Does the Earth4Energy Manual really work, or is it just a scam? After searching on the internet for ways to reduce my electricity bill, I stumbled upon this home energy guide that made me really curious but skeptical at the same time. I was desperate to reduce the amount of money I was spending on electricity every month, so I eventually ended up purchasing the manual to try out the windmill and solar system inside.

1. What Are The Benefits Of Using The Earth4Energy Manual?

After buying the materials and building the systems with the step-by-step instructions inside the guide, I am now able to produce enough energy to run my PCs and television set. Eventually, I am thinking about increasing the number of systems to power my entire house with it. In short, Earth4Energy really does work and I am pleased with the cost savings that I am experiencing with it today.

2. What I Learned Inside the Earth4Energy Manual

This guide contains easy to follow instructions that taught me how to build my own windmills and solar panels. These 2 renewable energy systems are able to generate electricity for my house and help me save costs.

You also need not know where to get the materials to build the 2 systems, as the Earth4Energy manual has listed the items and also states the cheapest sources for them. It is also important to learn how to maintain the windmill and solar panels so as to ensure that they do not wear out quickly. The manual contains a chapter that teaches you all about maintenance.

Thousands of people have already eliminated their own home electricity bills with this free energy system. They learned how to build it by downloading a step-by-step guide online. You can find out more about how to build this homemade power system at the website link below.

Is Earth4Energy Manual a scam? Do not try any windmill and solar power system scams until you read the author's review of the Best Home Energy Systems at http://www.renewableenergysystemreview.com first!

The author has managed to reduce his energy bill by more than 80% by building his own renewable home energy system. Check out his website to find out how to do it!

Is Nuclear Power Safe? You Decide

Nuclear power is an alternative to using fossil fuels and it is something that many countries are researching. You will find that nuclear power plants are spread through out most major countries and that the governments are actually trying to stop the spreading of these plants, simply because of the danger that bring in the cases of nuclear accidents. A nuclear accident could end up destroying a large area of the country and eventually the world.

However, you will find that the nuclear power is mostly safe for the general public, including the public that fears nuclear plants. You will want to learn the process of nuclear power so that you can raise awareness about all of the benefits of the power, but become known and familiar with the disadvantages of nuclear power. With this knowledge the community can take a stand against nuclear power.

Uranium is the start of nuclear power. Over 99% of the uranium that is found in the earth cannot be used to create nuclear power. However, with that 99% is some that could be used for your advantage. Nuclear power works in much of the same way that burning fossil fuels work.

Heat is created in a process known as fission, and this heat is used to create steam. You might find that the steam is expanded and that is what runs the turbine generator. Then the generator will produce electricity that will be delivered your homes across the country.

When uranium rods are placed into a reactor you will get fission. Neutrons are sent to smash into the uranium, and the nucleus of the uranium atoms split in half. This chemical reaction causes heat, which is picked up by carbon dioxide that has been pumped into the reactor.

This process is safer than most people think. When the reactor gets too hot or over heated, you will find that a fire is caused and then uranium is let into the environment. However, cooling rods, made of boron, can be used to quickly stop the nuclear reaction process.

If the reactor gets too hot, boron rods are lowered into it with a special crane, and the boron absorbs the neutrons. In the case of human error, a backup system is set into place in which boron rods are automatically lowered into the reactor.

Also, you should find that the reactor can become flooded with nitrogen and water when the reactor is over heated. This permanently damages the reactor, so it is a last resort, but it is an automated system that prevents disaster.

You should learn both the advantages and the disadvantages for nuclear power before you make a judgment on whether it is good for you or not. You will find that there is a lot of use, but there are lots of risks too. This form of energy needs to be pursued with caution.

James Veach is an Alternative Fuel Enthusiest who takes pride in helping the average consumer. Learn options in the energy field that can bring you big savings when it comes to saving energy and fuel. Join the revolution against high energy prices today!

Free Energy Tips
or
Alternative-Renewable-Energy-Resources

Build Solar Power Into Your Home and Save Money - The Blueprints on How to Install Them

Traditional sources of energy are causing harm to the environment and are getting more and more expensive. It's not surprising that I'm hearing a lot about people who want to generate their own power with solar energy but believe that it is too expensive to put into their own homes.

Expensive and Complicated? Not anymore.

If you pay somebody to install your solar panels for you, it may cost more than $3000 easily. But surprisingly, if you have a good manual for it its not actually a complicated task.

There are many guides on the internet that you can read to learn how to do it, and save yourself thousands of dollars. Solar panels can be installed on the roof of your house and can save you 80% or more on your electricity bill.

All you need is a basic tool set and a nearby hardware store for simple building materials. The price of solar panels is also dropping steadily, and now you can even get a lot of money back that you might spend up front for the panels:

Government Supports Solar Power

Any manual that you might pay for should tell you this.

Many governments support renewable energy projects, even as small as home-scale. Depending on the size of your project, you can get 500-2000$ back from the government to fund your energy project, free and no strings attached! Most manuals pay for themselves just with this feature.

Electricity Company Will Send You Money

If you produce more electricity than you use, your power company will give you a check! Putting more energy into the grid with renewable energy helps reduce the use of earth-consuming energies like coal.

Be Environmentally Friendly AND Profit!

You can either do something about our failing environment or you can just go and watch more TV about it like everybody else...

It is much cheaper than it ever has been, so now that you can make money from going green, what excuse do you have?

How can you get started?

You need to see the right manuals that will show you clearly how to easily install your own solar panels for homes.

Click here to check out how you can save your cash and at the same time save the environment using home solar power.

Make Your Own Solar Panel & Power Your Home For Free!

Ever wondered if you can really make your own solar panel and power your home for free (or at least cut your energy bills DRASTICALLY)? Well, many folks that I know are beginning to discover this simple technology. It's not rocket science...all you need is a good set of instructions and a little elbow grease to go with that.

I bet you must have seen solar panels installed on top of roofs and wondered if you too could have one of these nifty energy saving devices. Well, the truth is, solar panels that are professionally installed by a local contractor can cause you thousands of dollars at the onset, depending on the size of your house. And that's not forgetting the cost of regular maintenance which can set you back further even if you have deep pockets.

In more recent months, a far more VIABLE option has been presented to the average household, that enables you to make your own solar panel system for under $200. This may seem a daunting at first, especially if you're not a DIY fanatic. But it's completely do-able. What you need is a good instructional package that takes you by the hand and walk you through the entire assembly and installation process. You can get the parts cheaply from your local hardware stores. A good guide will even tell you where you can get these at really low cost.

If you can read and follow instructions, and willing to get your hands a little dirty, building your own solar panels is the best way to drastically cut your monthly electricity bills. Better still, if you build a more elaborate system, you can even generate surplus energy that your local power company will pay you money for, each and every month! That's going completely off-grid!

So, why not make your own solar panel and never worry about paying your monthly energy bills? You will be glad you did!

Want to build your own solar panels but don't know where to start?

Fret not! Many people just like you have successfully built these on their own to DRASTICALLY cut their monthly electricity consumption. They are already shaving $1000s off their energy bills every year. If you need STEP-BY-STEP guidance in installing one, I have reviewed the Best Online Guides on DIY Solar Panels for your convenience. These highly recommended guides provide EASY-TO-FOLLOW instructions that will help you save money in no time.

Dave Keller is an Renewable Energy Specialist who takes pride in helping the average consumer save on their energy bills using simple DIY devices... and give power companies a run for their money! For a candid review of the best-selling guides, go to his website at http://www.HomeSolarPanels4u.com now.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Home Solar Power - What You Need to Know About the Sun's Energy

Home solar power refers to power which is generated through the means of the sun's energy. While home solar power options are yet to pick speed, the truth is that when you start to realize the true potential of this unconventional source of energy, you would be inclined to shift your focus from the conventional means of energy to home solar power. To make this more clear, allow me to give you more information about the sun's power which can be harnessed for personal use.

The Energy Is Continuous

The biggest advantage of opting for this resource is its continuity. It is continuous in nature. In case you are still wondering what would happen when coal and natural gas finish, you need not to worry for the solar power would take care of all your energy requirements. This is by far the biggest advantage of making use of this resource.

It Is Non-Polluting In Nature

The second biggest advantage of opting for solar energy is that it is non toxic in nature. As compared to numerous other sources of energy which emit carbon di oxide and various other chemicals, the suns energy is absolutely free from any kind of pollution. Hence, whenever you are opting to use the sun's energy, you can be rest assured that you would be doing a big favor to the environment by saving it from further damage.

It Is Affordable

The biggest advantage of using the energy from the sun is the price factor. As compared to the usual sources of energy, solar energy is an inexpensive resource and it is all set to provide the much needed power to your house as and when the need arises.

Hi, I am Mark Morris and I am an energy conservationist. I have a secret to share.

The Recommendation: To adopt a widely approved Solar Energy Program, which allows you to permanently get rid of your recurring electric bills. It has helped COUNTLESS people worldwide-it is now your turn.

Who Is It For: Folks who are tired of polluting power programs and have lost thousands of dollars on wasted power bills. It is for any and everyone who wishes to see instant results and save money.

How To Get There: Simply click http://purelyfitness.com/earth4energy-review and join the successful campaign to save our environment from further pollution.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Are The California Wildfires Of 2007 Burning Homeowners Twice?

Many emails regarding homeowner insurance problems from the California wildfires of 2007 have flooded my mailbox. Homeless victims are trying to rebuild with insufficient insurance money. The cost to rebuild homes in California is currently more than the value of the finished home. People seeking to build homes without paying exorbitant contractor expenses are flocking to my website looking for answers.

One particular email message is from a single mother who had lost everything she owned. The fires swept through many neighborhoods fueled by high winds and dry conditions. California was in a state of emergency and there was very little that could be done to stop it. Many homes were completely burned or devastated beyond repair. This woman was given an insurance claim reimbursement for $80,000, yet the cost to rebuild her home is $130,000.

The liabilities took a heavy toll on insurance companies. Very few homeowners are receiving what they adequately need to rebuild their homes, so they are now weighing their options of rebuilding. There are many of our beloved California people who are desperate to get on with their lives, but are unable to do so.

Many insurance claims are not calculated on replacement value, but the value of similar homes in the neighborhood. The comparative approach is used to determine a home's value in the real estate market. Overall, this is a fairly reliable means of home valuation, but in the case of home replacement in a weak housing market, it can spell disaster for homeowners.

As an example, suppose a person wants to build a 2,000 square foot home in California where he or she already owns the land. The materials and labor costs for a modest home of this size is around $210,000. After the home is finished, the appraised value could be as low as 80% of the value of the cost of materials and labor because of a weak housing market. So the comparative approach could value the new home as low as $168,000.

Many homeowners aren't willing to take such a huge loss of equity to live in a home so they are waiting for the housing market to recover. Undoubtedly, the housing market will recover as it always has, but this still leaves the California wildfire victims in an awkward place. Do they rebuild a home that will cost more to build than it's worth, or do they wait for the market to recover? Such is the dilemma of many homeowner wannabes right now.

This problem isn't everywhere, yet it is alive and well in many parts of the United States, more particularly, in California. There are questions that should be asked as collective members of this great nation about the problems in California. It's one of the strongest states leading the way for other states to follow. The question about the volatility of housing markets is really insignificant because markets will rise and fall. That's just the nature of the beast called the housing market.

The true question should be directed toward building and labor costs. Why does it cost so much to build a home in California?

One may be tempted to think that the price of building materials could be a reason, but the fact is that building materials are probably cheaper in California than almost anywhere else in the United States.

The real answer is that California has regulated itself into a corner by allowing bureaucrats to impose stringent codes and standards. Many newly created jobs in California are those of inspectors and building officials that aren't needed. The need for building inspectors and other types of home systems inspectors is understandable. They are necessary for our physical and financial safety.

When inspectors are inspecting and overseeing other inspectors however, one starts to feel that there should be some cutbacks on bureaucrats. In many parts of California, homeowners are not allowed to do work on their own homes. It doesn't matter if the work done is approved by a licensed inspector; the homeowner has to hire someone else to do the work. Bureaucrats have created too many plush jobs for themselves and the housing industry is feeling the crunch.

Here in Idaho the standards aren't as drastic, but still more regulated than they should be. Ten years ago, there was a mass exodus of Californians into Idaho. Land, housing, and the way of life was affordable without over-regulation in the planning and zoning departments, but that soon changed.

Many of the people that moved from California were older in age and they had money from their home sales to build homes in Idaho and to invest in land. They immediately started to do the same things that they did in California. The same things that made them want to move away. They started imposing regulations and codes.

They made it so homeowners with farms couldn't divide up their land to sell or even give to other family members. They made it so that homeowners had to become licensed contractors to work on their own homes or else they had to hire it out. Planning and zoning offices are full of retired California people that move to Idaho looking to get away from it all, yet bringing it all with them.

The cost of building homes went up sharply after that, but the actual value of homes in the neighborhood rose very little. Now, it's difficult to build a home on a budget here and people are wondering why.

It's time to regulate the regulators or there will be more housing markets like that of California. The problem is that there are so many people who prefer to be government parasites. They want to have jobs that are easy to do so they create those jobs for themselves. Their pay comes from those who work hard for a living.

The housing market will recover in time, but if we could create a housing stimulus package like the federal economic stimulus package, it would help the market bounce back immediately.

This package would be as simple as redefining the needs of inspectors and codes. Making cutbacks on all additional inspectors and codes that weren't there twenty years ago would be a good plan. This doesn't have to be a permanent change, but rather, a part of a housing stimulus package to get things jump-started. Houses would suddenly become affordable again for everyone. A home should never cost more to build than it's worth after it's built.

Larry Angell is the author of Sweat Equity, building a house at half cost. His experience working with low income families to attain affordable housing has started him on a crusade to help other people learn how to build homes for a fraction of the cost. He teaches the advantages and benefits of becoming new homeowners with high equity.

Architects And Home Design

Monday, July 27, 2009

Antique Wood End Tables - A Fantastic Way To Add A Vintage Look To Your Space

Your home has a vintage feel to it. You have a lot of old fashioned and traditional furnishings, plus, decorations and a home interior to match. So, when you are going out shopping looking for new pieces of furniture, you need ones that are going to fit into your homes present dcor and antique wood end tables would a wonderful selection that would work well in your home.

Antique wood end tables have a very pleasing look that is sure to enhance the appearance of any room that they are put in. Obviously they are crafted out of wood, but there are many different woods used to make them and each has a very distinguished and beautiful look, featuring many lovely finishes. A few of those wood options include maple, pine, oak, and cedar while some finishes include antique, cherry, black, and many more. Usually, these fine furnishings will feature a lot of intricate detailing, including elegant scrollwork, carvings, edging, and lovely accent touches like eye-catching hardware and even hand painted designs, patterns, and inlays. Sometimes they will just be very simple and will have a table top and supporting for legged base and other times they will have a table top that has an apron, a drawer or side cabinets for storage, extra shelves to display items, and instead of the four legs will have a single pedestal base. All the options make it easy to find the perfect one for you and your space.

Not only are antique wood end tables a fabulous choice for a home that is traditionally decorated, but one would also be a lovely choice for a modern home as well. Like, if you are looking to add a vintage look to a room or if you want something that is just a little different from everything else in your home. One would be a nice addition. However, if you are not into antique wood end tables, there are also many other kinds of end tables to choose from that fit well into any setting. Other selections include those of the modern variety that are made from metal or wood that have glass table tops, ones that are a little more artsy that feature unique designs and styling using all types of materials, and ones that are plain, yet sophisticated and are made out of wood. From traditional to modern, there are many that you can choose from. For a quick way to see the many different options, just hit the World Wide Web and do some online shopping. You can easily compare prices without ever having to leave your home.

So, if your home has a classic feel to it, or you simply want a furnishing that is a little more traditional than what you have, an excellent choice for you are antique wood end tables. Extremely appealing to the eye, one or a few would be a fabulous way to enhance the look of your home.

As an owner of many home decor sites, Jennifer Akre offers product reviews and information on tables and accessories, giving the online consumer help finding elegant end table or end tables. Decorate your home your style - your way - Click today: antique wood end tables

Pocket Door Problems

Final Walk Through on a Newly Built Home

So you're within days of closing on your newly built home and you're already to move in. Before you close on your home, however, it is important that you first do a final walk through on the newly built home. If you are intent on closing on the planned closing day, then you should preferably do the final walk through at least several days before the closing. This will enable the general contractor to have some time to address any issues that may be uncovered during the walk through.

Walk Through Checklist Around the Outside of the Newly Constructed Home

When doing a final walk through of a newly built home, start by walking around the outside of the home. Check for loose siding and roofing shingles. Also check the outside foundation for cracks. Make sure screens are in all windows, and that entrance ways are properly and completely installed e.g. stairs, decks, and walkways. Also check that the outside water spigots and outlet boxes are operational. Also make sure all outside lights are working. In addition, make sure ground fault interrupter circuits have been used on outside outlets. Finally take a careful look at the gutters to make sure they have been installed properly and have a good pitch towards the drain pipes.

Next examine the grounds / landscaping. Has the turf been properly installed and looking healthy? If grass seed was planted, has it germinated? Are retaining walls properly constructed and were they installed where you expected them to be? Make sure that all the shrubs that you paid for were installed in the right locations and were of the right species. If an underwater sprinkler system was installed make sure it operates correctly.

Also check the grade of the landscaping around the home foundation. The grade should be such that water will drain away from the foundation. If this is not done, expect regular basement water problems. Also check for pooled areas, where water is sitting stagnant. If you see pooled areas this is a sign that grading was not done properly. Finally, make sure the driveway was installed properly and to your satisfaction.

Walk Through Checklist for the Inside of the Newly Built Home

Once you have completed the walk through around the outside of the home, it's time to check the inside. When doing the inside walk through you may want to bring along an outlet tester or small appliance such as a hair dryer to check to make sure power is operational to all outlets.

When performing a walk through on the inside of the home, start with the basement. Make sure there are no leaks or puddles in the basement. In addition, check the walls for cracks. Also make sure the plumbing and wiring is neat and properly secured. Make sure that you confirm that the heating and cooling system work properly. Also check to make sure that major beams are sitting properly in the foundation sockets. On occasion I have seen center beams floating at one end of the foundation. Either the lally columns were placed too high or the socket was placed too low for the beam.

In the main part of the home, check to make sure that the floors do not squeak and that all the doors and windows open and close properly. Also check every light switch and outlet to make sure that they work properly.

In the kitchen make sure that all of the appliances are correctly installed and are functional. Also check all of the cabinets and drawers to make sure they are functional.

In the bathrooms make sure the ceiling fans are all working. Also make sure the fiberglass tub has not been damaged in any way.

Both in the bathrooms and the kitchen make sure ground fault interrupter circuits have been installed.

Make sure painting is complete throughout the home and that all flooring has properly been installed. Make sure you check for cracked tiles, or cuts in the vinyl flooring.

Finally check the smoke alarms, and home security system. Make sure they are working properly.

If problems are uncovered, write them down and submit a copy of the list to your general contractor. After he has addressed the issues, go back to the home and revisit the issues you uncovered on your first walk through.

Conducting a walk through on new home construction, prior to closing, is essential in making sure you get what you pay for. If you find problems after the closing it will more than likely take more time and effort to get them corrected, even if you have a home warrantee/guarantee. A general contractor wants his paycheck, and if he knows he won't get it until the problems are resolved chances are he will resolve them very quickly.

For more help on building a new custom home, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's New Home Construction Bid Sheet. The New Home Construction Bid Sheet provides you with the knowledge on how to plan a custom home building project, and what to look for when hiring contractors for your new home construction. It also includes a detailed cost breakdown table and spreadsheet for estimating your own new home construction building costs.

About the Author: Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more home improvement information visit http://www.homeadditionplus.com and http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Concrete Patio Gofer Damage

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Gardening Gloves

Gardens are beautiful places to relax in. They can also provide endless enjoyment if you are a gardener. The idea of having flowers that give off pleasant smells as you pick your garden fresh vegetables and herbs is a pleasing one. The amount of pain that unprotected hands can go through however might make you reluctant to prune those rose bushes.

Gloves, in particular gardening gloves are the most important item that a gardener can possess. The process of choosing the right glove can be a little difficult especially if you are new to gardening. There are a few tips that can make buying your gardening gloves easy.

The best type of gardening gloves should be made from very good quality leather. They must also be gloves that can be used for whatever gardening job that you will embark upon. Buying a pair or two of general purpose gardening gloves that have a cloth backing to them, will let your hands stay cool and comfortable during the time you are gardening.

Many times you might decide to do some gardening after it has finished raining. This will mean muddy and very wet gardening. The idea of working with wet, slippery hands may not appeal to you. Therefore selecting rubber gardening gloves that have a cotton lining will absolutely protect your hands from the mud and dirt of a rainy garden.

To ensure that your plants stay healthy and insect free, many of us will use a pesticide. Wearing gardening gloves made from latex or plastic will not help to protect your skin from the harmful effects of the chemicals in pesticides. Neoprene gloves on the other hand are made for this purpose.

All most every garden has roses bushes planted in them. While a rose bush that is filled with blooms is a gorgeous sight, the many thorns on the plant can make a gardener's heart sink. To prune those very thorny plants you should wear gardening gloves that have long wrist protectors.

When the time comes to transplant your delicate seedlings in the garden you need gardening gloves that will let you handle them with care. However there are many plants that must be planted in the garden during the early winter season. Wearing gloves to protect your hands from the cold is a good idea, but it can impede your ability to feel the process of transplanting. For delicate winter time transplanting fingerless gardening gloves will allow you to do this delicate and detailed work, whilst keeping you as warm as possible.

The only other tip that you need to consider when you choose your gardening gloves is to see that they fit your hands comfortably. So, take heart, take plenty of notes, plan, and buy to your heart's content. Remember that gardening gloves truly are a gardener's most trusted companion. They will not only help to protect your hands from dirt, mud and thorns, they also aid in the prevention of painful blisters. Thus you will need to choose your gardening gloves with care.

Charles writes for the popular garden centre website BlueWorldGardener where you can find a great range of lawn mowers, garden furniture and gardening gifts.

Horizontal Or Vertical Drywall

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Getting Children Interested in Growing Vegetables

What is the best way of getting your children interested in growing vegetables?

Well in my view you need to give them their own space. Tell them this plot is yours. It does not have to be large, about 2 feet square for younger children or you could even get them started by growing crops or herbs in pots. Older children may prefer something larger. I know that a small high density bed that is only 2 foot by 2 foot doesn't sound very big, but it will be to a young child. A larger bed may just seem too big to do anything with to them, so start them small. If you have more than one child, give them their own high density bed each or just make a larger bed and divide this up into a section for each child and then divide this into mini plots for each crop. For very young children I would not make the bed more than 2 feet wide as they can reach the middle of this from each side.

What I would do is start them off with their own high density gardening raised bed built from timber that is at least 6 inches deep. This will give a soil depth which is deep enough for most easy to grow crops. You need to fill this with a soil mix and I would recommend buying this in the form of bagged peat or coir, bagged well rotted manure and maybe a bag of sterilized topsoil as well. As you have some manure in there you need to instill in your children good hygiene with hand washing after gardening and before eating. Mix your soil ingredients together and then fill the high density garden bed. If you are using 6 inch timber you will only need 2 cubic foot of soil mix. Once you have done this I would divide the bed into 4 mini plots using a brightly colored plastic string. I have gone for plastic as it does not rot and is safer for little hands than wire. Simply staple this to the timber. To increase interest, get your child involved in building the high density garden bed and even a trip to buy the soil mix and the seeds.

You are now ready to start planting. But what do you plant. It all depends on the age of your child. Younger children want to see things happen quickly and the crop be ready as soon as possible. Older children may be prepared to wait to harvest the crop. For this reason I would suggest thinking about what crops to grow. Things like radish and lettuce are best as these are fairly quick to grow. That takes care of 2 of the mini plots and in the others I would suggest something like mixed salad, land cress, rocket or possibly 1 outdoor cherry tomato plant. Older children will have a much better idea of what they like and want to eat so go along with that but remember, the crops talked about here are quick growing.

Cherry Tomato

I know tomatoes take a long time to grow but a seed should be up in a week and then there is all the fun watching it grow to about 3 to 4 foot tall, keep tying it to the stake, pinching out the side buds, watching the flowers appear, then the tiny green fruit and so on. There is a lot to watch with tomatoes. You can start the plant off in a pot in the house. Try the kitchen windowsill. Put 2 or 3 seeds in and choose the strongest seedling. There is watering to be done, so buy a child size watering can for this job and make sure you stand the pot on a drip tray or old plate. If it is warm enough outside, you can just put the seeds straight into the mini plot. Make sure this is at the side farthest away from the sun as otherwise it would shade out the other smaller plants.

Back to the high density bed, what to do now? It should be divided into 4 mini plots and each one of these will take a different crop.

Radishes

I would get your child to sow radish in one of the mini plots. Try dividing this up for them into 3 strips and sow 2 rows of radish in one of them, 2 rows in the next 2 weeks later and 2 rows in the final strip 2 weeks after than to give a timed cropping. Simply draw your finger to make 2 drills in which to drop the seed about half an inch deep. Try to get the seeds about an inch apart but this will not be easy for little fingers and cover the seeds with soil mix. It doesn't matter if there are gaps or too many seeds in some places, it is all part of gardening experience. If there are too many seedlings simply thin them out. You should be able to fill gaps in with these thinnings but they do not always transplant but there is no harm in trying. When your child is planting the final third of the bed there will be radishes nearly ready for harvesting in the first third.

Lettuce

I would start these off growing in small flats or seed trays or better still in cells as these make a nice little plug to transplant. Rather than a hearting lettuce, I would grow a loose leaf type as they grow much quicker and can be harvested earlier. They also have the benefit of keeping growing as long as you harvest a few leaves of each plant when you need them.

Once they seedlings are large enough, plant out 4 in a mini plot. Watch out for slugs and other pests but otherwise just watch them grow. Harvest the young leaves when ready.

Mixed Salad Leaves

I would get your child to scatter these on the surface of the soil mix. Tip the seeds out on to your hand or a piece of paper and get your child to pick a few up at a time, scatter these and then add some more. Gently cover the seeds and I find a simple garden seed sowing sieve is best for this. Do not cover them too thickly. You treat these the same as for loose leaf lettuce but rather than one type of lettuce you will get a mixture of different salad leaves which can all be harvested together.

Land Cress or Rocket

These may be a little strong in taste but if your child has grown them they may be far more likely to eat them. Sow them as you would for lettuce. Grow in flats or cells and plant 4 to a mini plot. They will develop to fill the mini plot over time.

By starting your child gardening at an early age you may set them off with a lifetime hobby. There is the old saying "Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today. Teach a man to fish; and you have fed him for a lifetime." Well it is the same with young children and gardening. Start them gardening now and they may develop a life long interest in growing their own fresh vegetables and there is nothing finer than fresh, wholesome and tasty vegetables except the ones you have grown yourself.

You can find more information on High Density Gardening at www.highdensitygardening.com

Ric Wiley is an internet writer and gardener. His latest website about High Density Gardening can be found at http://www.highdensitygardening.com

Surviving As A Contractor

Monday, June 8, 2009

Common Houseplant Problems

House plants have problems just as your outdoor plants do. They can range from diseases and insects to over and under watering or over and under fertilizing. Knowing what cause the problem is the first step in curing it. With house plants if the base of the plant stem is soft and seems weak, then more than likely the cause is from over watering, simply allow your plant to dry completely out before watering again or re-potting with a good draining soil with a little sand mixed in will also improve your plants.

Leaf Drop "drooping leaves" are another common house plant problem commonly caused by an over exposure to cold or drafts, over fertilizing or to much sun. You should stop fertilizing for three to four weeks and move the plant to a window with a little less sun and check the rooms' temperature and for drafts also the cold from the window at night.

Yellow or Brown Spots means too much water or sun and the soil should be checked for moisture, if it's too wet let it dry out some before the next watering and then move to an area a little less sunny. If the leaves are turning brown then yellowing this may be from several causes, the most common is not enough or too much water or even over fertilization. A re-potting with fresh soil, and holding off on fertilizing for a month or so will generally do the trick, water only when the plant has become completely dry and avoiding too much sun,

Dry brittle leaves means that your home does not have enough humidity and your plants are not getting enough water. A good misting of the leaves and a good soaking of the plant itself is a quick fix for this. Soak the plant by watering it until the water runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, misting can be done with a sprayer or simply wiping the leaves down with a cloth or sponge, this is also a good way to get some of the dust off the leaves, bringing their shine back.

Most house-plants are slow to grow, generally from too little light, water or fertilization. House plants however don't need a lot of fertilizer, when you do fertilize with a slow release fertilizer and extra light can be given by moving the plant to a sunnier location or adding a grow light above it for the extra light it needs.

Eudora DeWynter offers tips on Common Houseplant Problems on her blog at http://www.gardentoolguru.com.

Moisture Against Gravity Destroy

Compost and Save the Planet

Composting is the aerobic decomposition of biodegradable organic matter. It is nature's own and oldest method of waste disposal and soil fertilisation. It "downcycles" organic household and yard waste and manures into an extremely useful humus-like, soil end-product. Furthermore it is widely believed to considerably speed up the natural process of decomposition as a result of the higher temperatures generated.

History

Although composting has historically focussed on creating garden-ready soil, it is becoming more important as a tool for reducing solid waste. It is a popular misconception that it is a "controlled" process as, if the right environmental circumstances are present, the process virtually runs itself. Decomposition occurs throughout nature as garbage dissolves in the absence of all the conditions, and weather patterns, that modern composters talk about; however, the process can be slow.

A compostable material biodegrades substantially into carbon dioxide, methane, water and compost biomass. However,examples of compost-compatible materials include sand particles and inert particles of plastic. A compost-compatible material does not have to be compostable or even biodegradable.

Waste

More than 60 percent of household waste in the United States is recyclable. It is, however, important to engineer the best possible circumstances for large amounts of organic waste to break down properly. Surveys have shown that the #1 reason Americans don't compost their waste is because they feel the process is complicated, time-consuming or requires special equipment. The alternative to landfill, incineration, whilst reducing the mass of the waste, does not dispose of it altogether; approximately 30% of the original mass remains, it still needs to be land filled, and is still a waste of resources. Composting is nature's own and oldest method of waste disposal and soil fertilisation.

Material

The decomposition of material sent to landfill is a principal cause of methane, an important greenhouse gas, so reducing the amount of waste sent to landfill is a key element of the fight against climate change. A biodegradable material is capable of being broken down completely under the action of microorganisms into carbon dioxide, water and biomass The size of the material is a factor in determining compostability because it affects the rate of degradation.

Composting is applied microbiology at its most complex, involving the interactions of thousands upon thousands of different species of microorganisms (2 million individuals per gram) in a highly complex ecosystem. It is indeed a natural way of recycling, harnessing natural processes rather than machinery and man-made chemicals, but it takes people to do it.

Kath Ibbetson qualified as a pharmacologist and then worked in computerized drug databases for 12 years. She has a BSc, a diploma in aromatherapy and a certificate in counselling.

Click Here to take a composting survey

Find out more about composting visit this Site

Pocket Door Problems

Indoor Hydroponics Kits - One Way to Cut the Learning Curve For Hydroponics

Hydroponics does have a technical aspect to it that can be challenging. We're all very familiar with the idea of finding a plant, getting a flowerpot, getting some kind of soil, putting a plant in, give it some food and water on schedule. Even if we haven't done it before, we already have an idea how it's done.

Though hydroponics has been around for longer than 150 years, it is still novel to many. It's not commonly known how efficient a method it is for plant cultivation. Multiple ways to set up hydroponic systems exist depending on the knowledge and ingenuity of the gardener.

Even those of us who lack do-it-yourself skills, would enjoy touch of green in the home. And as beginners we may be reluctant to use hydroponics; it can seem so technical.

We're looking for a plant to complement our life. The reason may be aesthetic. It may be culinary. - the idea of having fresh herbs during the winter months. Or growing cherry tomatoes in a small apartment.

The difficulty when opening up some books on hydroponics you see more technique than plants. Of course, those who have any kind of commercial interest (both legal and illegal), must bring the product to market as efficiently as possible. It makes sense for such growers to have mastered many technical aspects of hydroponic gardening.

So they devote entire grow rooms to their crop: rooms covered in reflective material; lights and lamps of all kinds; complicated methods of watering the system. If you followed their example you would be paying much more in energy and water bills.

However, you may be living in a small apartment or studio. All you have space for is one or two plants.

The simplest solution is to buy an indoor hydroponics kit such as Aerogrow's Aerogarden. Anyone, with or without gardening experience, can succeed in growing lush, beautiful gardens. Simply add water, drop in the pre-seeded grow plugs, turn it on and watch it grow. The system automatically turns the grow lights on and off and reminds when to add water and nutrients. For more information, see http://www.indoorhydroponicsblog.com

Exterior Wood Beams

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Holy Moly! Honey-We Got Moles!

The tiny mole can wreak havoc on your yard and make you crazy in the process. It is the battle between you and the mole and you are not going down without a fight! You had a beautiful lawn, but now what?

Frustrated and upset, I bet. Where do you go from here? Traps work great. Moles have been trapped for hundreds of years and some trap designs have changed little over time. Why change if it works and solves the problem?

Children and pets also benefit by not being subjected to chemicals sprayed on your lawn where they play. Trapping is a non-toxic solution to mole control. Home remedies rarely if ever work. Drowning, gum and so many other things have been tried and of course have failed. Sometimes we are as stubborn as the mole is!

You are going to be a better mole trapper if you receive some training. That training should come from someone that knows how to catch moles and knows their biology. You have to know how a criminal behaves to catch them. So true is it for mole control.

Moles can be removed and the problem can be solved. Some people think they will always have a problem with them and it is not worth the trouble to remove the ones in their yard. I am here to assure you, that you can live without them through proper management of the animal.

So, next time you are thinking you should pull back and retreat, pull out your handy mole traps, knock the rust off of them and put them in the ground. You will be glad you

Mark Dotson, Wildlife Control Expert and veteran mole control professional. To learn more about mole control, visit http://www.moletrapping.com

Getting Rid Of Horrible Attic Sm

3 Compelling Reasons Why You Should Use a Professional Garden Fence Erector

The weekend arrives. The posts and fence panels have been sitting in the garden for a couple of weeks. You are ready. You don your wellies, grab your spade and toolbox and head outside. You lay out the fence posts where you want them and pick up the first metal spike. You push it into the ground to get it started. Then you get the sledgehammer and bang it in. As it goes deeper, it starts to twist, OK, no problem, you simply twist it back and carry on. It twists again. 30 minutes later, the spike is in place, still twisted and also slightly wobbly. Ah well, you think, the whole thing will tighten up when the panels are nailed in place ...

OK, so you have decided that you want a garden fence. Putting up a boundary fence is pretty easy, right? Well yes, but the problem is, will it be a good fence or will it fall down prematurely? If you call in a professional fencer, you can be assured that it will last longer than most DIY fences. Economy is not always about getting the job done for the cheapest initial price. Anyway, here are three good reasons why employing a professional to erect your garden fence is more economical than doing it yourself.

One - deciding on the appropriate materials. You will end up spending hours deciding on the best type of fencing, or if you don't, you could easily end up with the wrong type of fence in the wrong place. Your fence could be over engineered for the location, in which case you will have spent more than necessary or it could be under engineered and will need replacing sooner than it would if it were done properly. Will you make your own fence from scratch or will you buy prepared panels? Will you set the posts in concrete or use metal drive-in footings? These and the many other questions will be answered almost immediately by a professional.

Two - obtaining the materials. Again, this will cost you a lot of time to source the materials. You will need to decide if you are going to get them from a garden centre or DIY chain store so you will need to go to both to check them out. Unless you have a large vehicle, your materials supplier will have to deliver. This can mean delays as they will need to schedule them in to their system and in some cases, you will have to pay a delivery charge. When they arrive, they will need to be stored somewhere until you get round to doing the work yourself. A professional fencer will collect the materials and store them at his or her premises until the agreed erection date arrives.

Three - erecting the fence. This is the crucial step, you will need to make sure that your fence posts are exactly in line, fixed into the ground firmly and that each post is vertical and not twisted otherwise weak points will be introduced into the structure. All this takes time and skill. OK, it's not rocket science but it does take a while to develop the skills so DIY will be slow going, unless you are happy with a sloppy job. The skills of a professional garden fencer are already there and you will be amazed at how fast and accurately they can do it. They will have the right tools for the job and be able to use them with skill. No twisted support spikes for them! Stress free, unlike the scenario of the opening paragraph.

Not convinced? Well that's up to you. Just think about what you could be doing with that extra free time that paying someone else to do your fence would give you.

Get a garden fence that will be the envy of your neighbours. Contact Luke Harrison now for garden fencing in south Derbyshire, for professional garden fencing services

Toilet Paper Under The Bathroom

How to Grow Healthy Houseplants

Adding plants to your home brings in color and life. Many plant varieties help clean the air and at the same time compliment the environment of your home. Seeing a healthy, lush and lovely plant is something everyone enjoys.

Taking care of your plants does not have to be a burden either. You can select plants that require minimal maintenance and just a bit of watering, and occasionally some light pruning. There are also plants that require no fertilizer and will grow well in just about any type of lighting situation.

Growth rates are going to vary between each plant species. You may choose one that changes weekly or pick a plant that reaches its full growth over a matter of years. If you want to see fast progress, then consider the fact that you will need to repot quite frequently. Some plants do so well, that they can actually split a clay pot in two. Other plants remain unchanged for long periods of time, making them suitable for a stable focal point in your homes design.

You can buy plants that bloom and grow at certain times of the year as well. Some flowering type plants will grow flower blossoms at the end of the winter season. While others grow in late summer, there are many in between as well. You can have a wide array cf flowers and colors all year round.

There are also exotic plants that you can choose from. You can purchase a carnivorous plant, which require considerable care, but they are noted for their beauty and are very different than their plain cousins. They can even clear your home of those pesky flies that wander into the home.

When taking care of a plant, there is always going to be some degree of work involved.

There are some plants that are insect and disease resistant, however nearly all will encounter some sort of problem. Mites, aphids and other pests can be easily eradicated though by using a mild insecticide.

Not watering your plants enough kills more plants then any pests do. But, over watering is one of the most common mistakes an owner can make. If the soil on top of the plant looks and feel dry, we react by watering the plant generously. In this eagerness to help our plant, we may actually be doing more damage. You need to know how much water your plant requires, when and monitor it carefully, this can solve this problem.

Once you understand the basics, you will be able to take the next step and start planting seeds or doing cuttings. You are just one step beyond needing to repotting indoor plants and growing your plants on your own can be a very rewarding experience.

Finding quality seeds and the right type of cuttings will ensure you get off to the right start. Adding the proper type of fertilizer at the opportune time will also give your new plant the best chance for success. Also make sure to provide ample lighting and nature will take over.

Your houseplants will give you years of beauty and joy that will enrich your household. By investing a bit of time and learning how to take care of your plants correctly, they will reward you several times over.

Now you can remove the confusion in your mind on the topic of air cleaning indoor plants We make the information simple, visit plant-care.com.

Installing Windows At A Eye Leve

Squash is a Big Hit in the Greenhouse - Over 500 Pounds of Squash in a Single Season

It started as a modest project to build a raised bed greenhouse for growing squash. You might say it was a necessity because of the dry and wind-swept climate we have here in Wyoming. It turned out to be an excellent investment in time and money, as it has paid us back in its first season with more than 500 pounds of vegetables. Let me tell you about the squash we raised in our homemade greenhouse.

The greenhouse was constructed using power poles, tin, ripstop poly sheeting, and chain link fencing top rail. I constructed a twin raised bed greenhouse that is a strong and able producer of both winter and summer squash. The beds are narrow and long, and covered with fabric mulch, and the whole thing is watered with a drip system.

The vegetables we planted were pitiful little seedlings with two or three leaves. We planted two each of six varieties of summer squash, and two each of six varieties of winter squash. Our summer squash consisted of Butterstick, Starship, Sunburst, Woods Bush Scallop, Gold Rush, and Magda.

Our winter squash consisted of Butternut, Thelma Sanders, Bush Delicata, Sweet Dumpling Delicata, Table Queen and Small Wonder. We put the summer squash on the south bed and the winter squash on the north bed. The winter squash were mostly a vine type of growth, whereas the summer squash were all bush varieties.

The growth of the squash was remarkable, and the care was easy. The tiny seedlings took a little while to get established, and then quickly put out more leaves. We pulled the few weeds that snuck out from under the fabric mulch to keep them from competing with the seedlings.

The summer squash started early with blossoms and setting fruit. Since it was still a bit cool outside, we hand pollinated with small water color paint brushes until the bumble bees took over. Once they took over, it was a haven for bumble bees, and they flew from blossom to blossom all covered in pollen during most of the day.

The squash were watered every couple days with the drip system. Once they reached a larger size and started to grow fruit, we watered each day for an hour or so. After they were in full production, we extended the watering times to make certain they were getting plenty of water to support all the fruit they were producing. They responded well and started to encroach on the walkway, eventually making it hard to walk the length of the center path. It was a jungle on the south side of the "squash house".

The winter squash were allowed to crawl and climb in any direction, and often had to be turned around to keep from piling up at the ends of the bed, or flowing over into the sunken walkway. Trellises were a welcomed feature for the long-vined winter squash. We hand pollinated them as well until the bumble bees took over. Later in the season, we bumped our heads on the fruit that hung down in the center of the walkway. It was a jungle on the north side of the "squash house" as well.

The harvest was a bit more than expected. Every 4 days during the mid-summer harvest, we collected 8 to 12 pounds of fruit, and that harvest continued for at least 2 and 1/2 months. On occasion we let the squash develop for another week, and then we harvested about 45 pounds on a single day. We estimate more than 300 pounds of squash was harvested for canning, freezing, fresh eating, and sharing with our friends and neighbors.

The winter squash had to wait for its "show" at the end of the season. More than 200 pounds lay on the fabric mulch, hung on the trellises, and dangled overhead on the joists of my homemade greenhouse. We are set for squash this winter, and we'll save money on groceries because we won't be buying much produce at all.

If you're interested in an abundance of food from a relatively small space, I suggest you consider your own "squash house". Come see how we were wowed by the miracle of seed, soil, water and sunlight.

Clair Schwan is an expert in frugal living, and has constructed three homemade greenhouses to help kiss goodbye to the high price of groceries. See his greenhouse gardens and other frugal living tips at http://www.frugal-living-freedom.com

Electrical Outlet Problems

The Protea Family (Proteaceae)

The protea family (Proteaceae) includes a wide range of ground covers, trees and shrubs that often make superb garden plants. While some of the species are frost-tender, they are in all other respects remarkably resilient plants that often thrive in situations where others would rapidly succumb. Poor soils and hot dry positions that scarcely seem capable of supporting life are often ideal for Proteaceae. If any plants could be said to thrive on neglect the proteas can.


Proteas (the term is often used collectively as well as for the genus itself) are a variable group. Indeed, the family was named after Proteus, a Greek god capable of changing his shape at will. It includes some 60 genera and 1400 species of Southern Hemisphere plants, the bulk of which are native to southern Africa and Australia with the remainder coming from South America and many of the Pacific islands, including two species (Knightia excelsa and Toronia toru) from New Zealand.


There is an enormous variety of foliage among the proteas. It is almost always evergreen, but may be needle-like, as with many grevilleas; long, narrow and serrated like that of Dryandra formosa; or rounded and leathery like the leaves of Protea cynaroides. Some genera, particularly Leucadendron, include species with brightly coloured foliage, the intensity of which varies with the season. Leucadendron stems retain their colour for weeks when cut and are an important part of the cut flower industry.


Protea flowers are composed of clusters of narrow tubes that are often curved. These 'spider' flowers are seen at their simplest in the two native species and some of the grevilleas. In many cases what appears to be the flower is actually a bract of brightly coloured leaves surrounding the true flowers. The most impressive example of this is the dinner plate-sized flower head of Protea cynaroides. The flowering season also varies; many proteas and grevilleas flower in winter, while leucospermums tend to flower in summer. With careful selection it is possible to plants in flower all year round.


The flowers often contain large quantities of nectar that many birds relish. Some species have very sticky flowers that will trap visiting insects, especially bees an this slightly sinister side of the flower appears to serve no particular purpose.


The South African and Australian Proteaceae tend to be at their best in warm, dry conditions and often thrive in coastal areas. Inland, unseasonable early and late frosts often kill all but the hardiest specimens. The South American genera tend to be hardier and prefer somewhat damper conditions. Embothrium in particular, can withstand hard frosts and is grown over most of the country. But where winter temperatures regularly drop to -6C or lower, most proteas require frost protection.


Cultivation


Other than a suitable climate, the key to success with proteas is establishing the right soil conditions. The protea family is mainly adapted to mineral based soils that drain very quickly and which often have low nutrient levels. These soils tend to be moderately acid and are often especially low in phosphates.


Good drainage is absolutely essential. Rich loams and heavy clays do not make good protea soils. If you have a heavy soil do not try to improve it by adding sand or shingle as this will often make the problem worse; the soil binds with the sand and shingle and sets like concrete. Instead add more humus. Proteas would not appreciate the rapid burst of nutrients from a rich compost so the humus used should be fairly low in nutrients. Natural leaf mould and rotted pine needles work well. To avoid these materials compacting down into a poor draining thatch, incorporate about 50% fine shingle grit by volume and combine the mix with the existing soil.


Most proteaceous plants come from areas with low rainfall or where the rains are strictly seasonal. Many are coastal plants although most of the South African genera include alpine or sub-alpine species. Knightia from New Zealand and Embothrium from Chile are exceptions; they usually occur away from the coast, in areas where rainfall is quite high and not seasonal. Nevertheless, they still demand excellent drainage.


Although proteas are remarkably resilient and not difficult to grow there seems to be some common myths regarding their cultivation. Like most myths these have some basis in fact, but they can be misleading.


Myth 1: feeding proteas will kill them.


That's not strictly true. Proteas need nutrients just like any other plant, but their are a little more exacting than some. It's not fertiliser that does the damage but high phosphate levels and intense bursts of nutrients that lead to overly rapid growth. Avoid most general garden fertilisers, fresh animal manures and anything with added superphosphate. Because proteas will tolerate poor soils, it is often easier not to feed them rather than risk damage, but you'll certainly get better results if you apply a slow release, low phosphate fertiliser in late winter and mid summer. This will keep the plants growing slowly but steadily; any bolting into growth tends to weaken them.


Myth 2: proteas only grow near the coast.


Not true. Many proteaceous plants come from inland areas. They will tolerate salt breezes but there is no general preference for coastal conditions.


Myth 3: proteas like wind.


That's also not entirely true. Proteaceous plants do not tolerate wet foliage or high humidity for long periods and in areas prone to these conditions extra ventilation will help reduce the incidence of fungal diseases. However, most proteas have brittle branches that snap or split in strong winds so there's no reason to presume that they prefer windy locations.


Myth 4: proteas need a hot sunny position.


Yes, most Proteaceae prefer full sun or something near to it. But that doesn't necessarily mean the hottest, most baked position you can find. Although they will survive severe conditions once established, extreme heat and drought will cause damage, especially to young plants. Shade from the hottest sun will prolong the flower display and, provided the drainage is good, occasional deep watering is also recommended.


Myth 5: proteas are short-lived.



Some are and some aren't. Old plants are normally removed long before the end of their natural lives because they tend to become rather woody and untidy. You can generally reckon on a useful lifetime of at least 8 years for Leucadendron and Leucospermum, and around 12 years for Protea. However, large species, such as Grevillea robusta and Banksia integrifolia, may continue to be effective garden plants for several decades.


Planting


Most proteaceous plants are sold in containers and are ready to plant right away. However, the best planting time depends on your climate. Autumn or winter is best in mild areas as this is when moisture requirements are at their lowest, while spring is the preferred time if regular frosts are expected as this allows the young plants to get well established before having to endure winter conditions.


Start by digging a hole at least twice the size of the plant's container, this large volume of loose soil will encourage good root development.. Additional drainage material can be added to the hole if necessary, otherwise planting is just a matter of removing the plant from its container, loosening any spiralling roots before placing in the hole, then refilling the hole and firming the plant into position. Large specimens will require staking to prevent wind damage.


Cut flower use


Many proteaceous plants make excellent long-lasting cut flowers. Leucadendrons in particular are widely planted solely for the purpose of providing material for floral decorations. Protea, Leucospermum, Banksia and Serruria flowers can all be used to make impressive large arrangements while the less dramatic blooms of Grevillea and Isopogon are better suited to more dainty work.


Some flowers, particularly goblet-shaped Protea flowers dry well although they do tend to disintegrate rather suddenly after a few months. Other genera such as Banksia and Leucadendron produce seed heads or cones that can be used in dried arrangements.


Pruning


Most proteaceous plants need occasional trimming and tidying. This may be to improve their growth habit or to remove old flowers or seed heads that have become dry and unsightly.


How far to cut back is the usual question. This varies with the genera, although as a rule only light pruning is recommended as there is a general reluctance among proteas to reshoot from bare wood. Of the common genera Banksia and Grevillea will withstand hard trimming, as will Leucadendron, Telopea and Mimetes, but pruning of Dryandra, Leucospermum, Serruria, Paranomus and most Protea species should be restricted to a light annual trimming.


The best time to prune is usually immediately after flowering unless you want to leave a few seed heads to mature for use as dried decorations. In areas where there is the possibility of frost damage, it is advisable to leave pruning autumn and winter-flowering plants until spring.


Container Growing


Some proteaceae can make good container plants, but you will have to be careful with your choice of potting mixes and fertilisers. Potting mixes need to be very free draining and often benefit from added coarse material such as shingle chips or pumice. Bark based mixes seem to work well but some growers feel they produce too much ethylene, which may harm the plants in the long run. Many commercial growers use soil based mixes and they generally prefer relatively poor and gritty volcanic soils.


Even plants with low nutrient demands will eventually exhaust their potting mix, so you will have to apply fertiliser occasionally. Use mild liquid fertilisers or special low-phosphate slow release pellets. Provided you are cautious the plants should respond well.


Propagation


Proteas can be frustratingly difficult plants to propagate. Fresh seed often germinates well only for the seedlings to collapse after a few weeks. This is usually due to a fungal disease that blackens the foliage and eventually kills the young seedlings. Regular fungicide applications are important. Prick out the young seedlings into a coarse, free draining, unfertilised potting mix once they have their first true leaves.


Cultivars and selected forms must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings in late summer and autumn. The success rate varies markedly; some cultivars, such as Leucadendron 'Safari Sunset', strike quite easily while many others may be virtually impossible without professional equipment.


Pests and Diseases


Grown under the right conditions proteaceous plants are relatively free of pests and diseases, or rather they're not attacked by anything out of the ordinary. The most widespread problems are leaf roller caterpillars and scale insects, which can eventually lead to sooty mould.


When growing proteas from seed you will doubtless lose some to the fungal disease mentioned above. This disease, which appears to be a type of damping off, can sometimes also attack more mature plants. It appears to be far worse in excessively wet conditions or after long periods of high humidity. Good ventilation and avoidance of overcrowding are effective preventatives and regular spraying with fungicides may control the problem.


Common genera


Many of these plants are not widely available at garden centres, although specialist growers would consider them to be just the most common genera and are likely to stock others as well. All of the species and genera covered here are evergreen unless otherwise stated.


Aulax


This is a South African genus of small to medium sized shrubs. This genus and Leucadendron are the only dioecious (separate male and female plants) members of the Proteaceae. Seed of all three species, Aulax cancellata, Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, is available but only Aulax cancellata is commonly planted. It grows to 1.5-2m 1m and has fine needle-like leaves. In spring, female plants produce red edged yellow flowers that develop into red seed cones. The catkin-like male flowers are yellow, as are those of Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, the female flowers of which are not very showy. Aulax pallasia grows to about 3 m and Aulax umbellata about 1.5m. All are hardy to about -5C and are usually raised from seed.


Banksia


An Australian genus of about 60 species, ranging in size from ground covers to medium-sized trees. The flowering season is primarily from late winter to late spring and most species have cylindrical cone-like flower heads composed of densely packed filamentous styles radiating from a central core. Creamy yellow to light golden-yellow is the predominant colour range, although a few species, such as Banksia ericifolia and Banksia praemorsa, have golden-orange flowers and those of Banksia coccinea are red. Most species have narrow serrated leaves that are mid to deep green above and silvery grey on the undersides but Banksia ericifolia has fine needle-like leaves. Leaf size varies from very small up to the 50cm long leaves of Banksia grandis. Hardiness varies with the species, some are quite frost tender but some will tolerate -10C.


Relatively few are seen in nurseries but the seed of most species can be obtained from Australia. Banksia ericifolia and Banksia integrifolia are the most widely grown and are also the hardiest of the common species, both withstanding -10C once well established. There are hardly any cultivars or selected forms of Banksia in cultivation. Species may be raised from seed and most will also strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings.


Dryandra


An Australian genus of around 60 species of shrubs ranging in height from about 1-4 m. Most have narrow, mid to deep green leaves that are often very long and narrow with sharply toothed edges. The rounded flower heads, which appear from mid winter, are usually light to bright yellow. The most common species is Dryandra formosa, which grows to about 3m and is hardy to around -5C once established (most of the other species are less hardy). Dryandras are superb long-lasting cut flowers and some will also dry well. They will grow on extremely poor soil and generally react badly to most fertilisers. Raise from seed or semi-ripe cuttings, which are often difficult to strike.


Embothrium


The Chilean Fire Bush (Embothrium coccineum) is a small tree around 5m 2.5m. It has 100mm long, leathery, bright green leaves that may become somewhat sparse on older plants. In mid to late spring the tree turns vivid orange-red as the honeysuckle-like tubular flowers open -the flowering season is brief but spectacular. Two forms are grown: 'Longifolium' and 'Lanceolatum'; 'Longifolium' is the more common cultivar. It is a vigorous upright plant that is quite drought tolerant and hardy to about -10C. 'Lanceolatum' is a stockier grower with narrow leaves. It demands more moisture but withstands harder frosts, up to -15C with some protection. However, in very cold winters it may lose up to two thirds of its foliage. Overall Embothrium requires more moisture than most Proteaceae but good drainage is still important. It may be grown from seed but is usually propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.


Grevillea


With some 250 species, this is the largest of the Australian proteaceous genera. Most of the common garden species and cultivars are ground covers to medium-sized shrubs (up to 3m) with needle-like foliage. However, some species are far larger. The silky oak (Grevillea robusta), which is often seen in mild area, can grow to 20m and in common with most of the larger species it has large pinnate leaves. Grevillea banksii has similar foliage but only grows to about 3.5m 3m.


The more densely foliaged plants, especially Grevillea juniperina and Grevillea rosmarinifolia, are often used as hedging plants. These plants grow to at least 1.5m high.


Grevillea flowers are often describe as 'spider flowers'. This refers to the styles of some species, which tend to radiate from the centre like a spider's legs. Some species have 'toothbrush' flowers; the styles are all on one side like the bristles of a toothbrush. The best known example of this type of flower is the common red-flowered cultivar 'Robin Hood'.


Many Grevillea cultivars arecultivated and they generally adapt well togarden conditions. Among the more popular are 'Jenkinsii' (a heavy flowering form of the red-flowered Grevillea rosmarinifolia), 'Robyn Gordon' (orange-red to red toothbrush flowers) gaudichaudii (deep red), 'Austraflora Canterbury Gold' (light golden yellow) and many of the Poorinda cultivars. Grevilleas are among the more widely available proteaceous plants and most nurseries stock a good selection.


The species and hybrids vary enormously in hardiness. Some will stand little or no frost but others, such as Grevillea rosmarinifolia, will tolerate frosts of -10C or lower; all prefer full sun with good drainage. The species are easily raised from seed and most hybrids strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer or autumn.


Hakea


This Australian genus includes about 130 species, few of which are widely cultivated. The most common is probably Hakea laurina, the Pincushion Hakea. When not in flower, this species could easily be mistaken for a small eucalyptus. It has bluish-green narrow, oblong to sickle-shaped leaves and reddish-brown bark. It grows to about 6m 4m and mature trees have a slightly weeping habit. The name pincushion refers to the flowers, which are spherical, with numerous radiating styles. They appear in late autumn and early winter, opening cream and turning to orange and red as they age. This shrub is hardy to about -5C once well established and is easily grown in most well-drained soils.


Of the other species, the most common are Hakea salicifolia, Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea. They are hardy to about -8C or slightly lower and are easily grown in most soils. Hakea salicifolia has narrow, willow-like leaves, spidery, white flowers that are produced in spring. It grows up to 5m high and will tolerate poor drainage. Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea have fine needle-like leaves and white or pale pink flowers in winter and early spring. It grows to about 3m 2m. All member of this genus are usually raised from seed but some can be grown from cuttings. A few, such as H. franciscana, are weak growers that often perform better when grafted onto more vigorous stocks, such as Hakea salicifolia.


Isopogon


Drumsticks, which refers to the shape of the flower stems and unopened buds, is a name often used for Isopogon anemonifolius but it can also be applied to the genus as a whole. It is an Australian genus of 34 species of small to medium sized shrubs, most of which grow from 1-2m high and about as wide. They have a preference for poor but well-drained soil and will quickly collapse if over-watered or overfed. Most species have narrow lanceolate leaves about 75mm long and some, such as the common Isopogon anemonifolius, have finely cut foliage reminiscent of Marguerite daisy or Anemone leaves.


The flower heads, which open in spring and early summer, are composed of a central cone from which radiate numerous styles. Some species have short stiff styles but in others they are long and filamentous. The flower colours are mainly white, yellow or pink. The two most widely grown species, Isopogon anemonifolius and Isopogon anethifolius are hardy to about -5C, but many species, such as Isopogon cuneatus and the temptingly beautiful pink and yellow-flowered Isopogon latifolius, are damaged at temperatures below -2C. Isopogon species are usually raised from seed.


Knightia


The Rewa Rewa or New Zealand Honeysuckle (Knightia excelsa) is the best known of the twoNew Zealandproteaceous species. In the wild it can grow to be a tall narrow tree up to 25m high and it is one of the few proteaceous plants to have been harvested for its timber, which is very attractively marked. In gardens it is more restrained and seldom exceeds 8m 3.5m. Rewa rewa has semi-glossy, deep green to bronze-green, narrow, lanceolate to oblong leaves that are very tough and leathery. In summer it produces tubular honeysuckle-like flowers that develop from buds covered in a reddish brown tomentum. As the flowers open the tomentum covered sepals and the petals curl back to form a congested mass in the centre of the flower head. The flowers, which can smell unpleasant, are followed by conspicuous brown, velvety seed pods. Rewa Rewa is easily grown in moist well-drained soil in sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -5C or slightly lower once established. It may be grown in any coastal area if protected when young. New Zealand honeysuckle is usually raised from seed and garden centres often stock ready-grown plants.


Leucadendron


Species of this genus are the most widely grown of the South African Proteaceae and many are valued for the long-lasting qualities of their flower bracts once cut. Most are medium-sized shrubs around 1-2.5m high. However, one of the best known species, the silver tree (Leucadendron argenteum), can grow to 10m high and the less widely grown Leucadendron eucalyptifolium may reach 5m.


Many species and cultivars are grown, but probably the most widely planted is 'Safari Sunset'. It is a hybrid between Leucadendron laureolum and Leucadendron salignum and is fairly typical of the genus. It has narrow, lanceolate leaves that are up to 100mm long. Some species, such as L. argenteum, have tomentose foliage but 'Safari Sunset' does not. The upward-facing foliage densely covers the narrow, upright branches and develops deep red tints at the flowering tips. Deep red leaf bracts enclose the flower cones. As the insignificant flowers near maturity, the bracts become intensely coloured. 'Safari Sunset' has red bracts but others develop cream, yellow, pink or orange tones. 'Wilson's Wonder' (yellow and orange-red), 'Maui Sunset' (cream, yellow and red) and 'Rewa Gold' (yellow) are among the most spectacular. Leucadendrons generally develop their best colours from mid to late winter but 'Jester' a pink, cream and green variegated sport of 'Safari Sunset' is brightly coloured throughout the year.


The species and hybrids vary considerably in hardiness but most will tolerate frosts of at least -3C provided they have good drainage and the humidity is not excessive. 'Safari Sunset' is hardy to about -8C and most of the numerous Leucadendron salignum and Leucadendron laureolum hybrids are nearly as hardy. In the North Island leucadendrons generally thrive in all but the coldest central areas and they can be grown with varying degrees of success in all coastal areas of the South Island.


Leucadendrons can be tricky to propagate. Reasonably firm cuttings taken in early autumn are usually the easiest to strike but gardeners without specialised propagating facilities may experience problems and although seed germinates well, it is inclined to damp off. Garden centres often stock a good range of plants.


Leucospermum


A South African genus of about 50 species, most of which are medium to large shrubs that grow to about 1.5-3m high. Some, such as Leucospermum reflexum, have strongly upright growth habits but most, including the commonly cultivated species, Leucospermum cordifolium, are dense and bushy. Both of these species have tomentose greyish-green leaves that are usually broadly oval shaped, often with small red-tipped lobes. The leaves of Leucospermum reflexum are narrower and greyer than those of Leucospermum cordifolium. Leucospermum reflexum can grow to 3m 3m but Leucospermum cordifolium is usually around 1.5m 1.5m.


The flowers are variously described as Catherine wheels, pincushions and sky rockets, all of which refer to the numerous radiating styles. These are often incurved, creating a cupped effect. The flower heads of Leucospermum cordifolium are quite globular while those of Leucospermum reflexum have drooping styles at the base of the flower. The flowers usually appear in late spring and continue for about two months. They are attractive when fresh but often become unsightly once they die off.


Most garden leucospermums are cultivars of Leucospermum cordifolium and are hardy to occasional frosts of about -5C, but they resent wet or humid winter conditions, which can often lead to tip die back. Good drainage is also very important. Cuttings taken in early autumn are the most likely to strike but without proper equipment they may prove difficult and seed often germinates well only to be killed by fungal diseases. Gritty well-drained soil, regular fungicide use and just enough water to keep the seedlings standing up are the keys to success. The orange-flowered 'Harry Chittick' is the plant most commonly stocked by nurseries and it is one that performs very well.


Mimetes


This South African genus includes 11 species, only one of which is widely grown. Mimetes cucullatus has 40mm long oblong leaves with small lobes at the tips, that densely cover the branches like upward facing scales. The small white flowers are enclosed within leaf bracts that change colour to a bright red as the flower buds mature. Mimetes may flower throughout the year but is usually at its best in late spring when the new growth appears, as this is also red. Mimetes cucullatus grows to about 1.5m 1.5m and is hardy to around -3C. It prefers moist, well-drained soil and is not very drought tolerant. This species is usually raised from seed.


Paranomus


The most common species of this 18-species genus, Paranomus reflexus, is an undemanding 1.5m 1.8m bush with bright yellow bottle-brush-like flower heads in winter and spring. The foliage is anemone-like and very finely cut; the flower stems have small diamond shaped leaves just below the flower heads. It is easily grown in any well-drained soil in full sun. Although the plant is hardy to about -5C, the flowers are damaged by frosts over -2C. It is usually raised from seed.


Persoonia


An Australian genus of around 75 species of shrubs, mostly under 2 m tall and some quite small. Known as geebungs, by far the best-known species is the Pine-leaf Geebung (Persoonia pinifolia), an eastern Australian native that is one of the larger species, capable of reaching 3 m tall. It has a weeping habit, fine needle-like leaves and small yellow flowers. Most geebungs will tolerate about 2 to 5C of frost.


Protea


Protea is a genus of about 80 species that is confined to southern Africa and concentrated around the Cape of Good Hope. The species range in size from less than 50cm high to over 4m. Most commonly grown proteas are small to medium sized shrubs in the 1-2.5m high range.


The best known species is Protea neriifolia. It has narrow leaves up to 150mm long that are covered with a fine tomentum when young. In autumn, winter and spring, upright, 125mm long 75mm wide goblet-shaped flowers are carried at the tips of the branches. They are composed of a woolly central cone surrounded by overlapping, upward-facing, petal-like, deep reddish-pink bracts tipped with a fringe of black hairs. Many forms with varying colours of bract and tip hairs are grown. Several other species, such as Protea magnifica and Protea laurifolia, have similar flowers.


The central cone, often with many incurving styles, is common to all Protea species but the arrangement of the bracts varies. Many have them arranged in a stellate or star-shaped fashion. The King Protea (Protea cynaroides) is the best known of this type. Its flowers can be up to 300mm in diameter. The flowers of the king protea face upwards but others, such as greenish-yellow-flowered Protea sulphurea, have downward facing flowers.


The foliage is also variable. It may be needle-like, as in Protea nana, lanceolate, oblong or rounded. It can be silvery grey, glaucous or bright green depending on the species and it may or may not be tomentose.


Likewise, hardiness varies considerably. Most species will tolerate at least -3C with good drainage and low humidity but many are considerably tougher. Protea neriifolia will withstand -5C and Protea grandiceps will often survive -10C when well established. Proteas do well over most of the North Island and many species can be grown as far south as Christchurch with a little winter protection.


Protea species are often raised from seed, which germinates well, but the seedlings may be difficult to keep alive. Hybrids and cultivars must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer and autumn. Specialist growers stock many species and cultivars while garden centres seldom have anything other than the most common plants.


Serruria


Blushing Bride (Serruria florida) is very popular with florists because its Nigella-like papery white bracts are very delicate and last well as cut flowers. The bracts, which are surrounded with finely cut lacy leaves, are produced freely in winter and spring. Blushing Bride can be difficult to grow, because not only is it frost tender (it tolerates only occasional exposure to -2C), it must also have full sun and absolutely perfect drainage. It is one of a genus of 44 species from South Africa, of which the only other species commonly grown is Serruria rosea. It is a densely foliaged 70cm 90cm bush with small pink bracts and is slightly hardier and definitely easier to grow than Serruria florida. Serruria species should be raised from seed.


Stenocarpus


The Queensland Firewheel Tree (Stenocarpus sinuata) is a large tree (12m 8m) that produces a magnificent display of orange to red flowers in summer. It has large, glossy, dark green leaves that are deeply lobed. The flowers are tubular and are carried in flattened clusters that radiate spoke-like from a central hub, hence the name firewheel tree. It is hardy to about -4C once well established but is very tender when young and does best in moist well-drained soil in full sun. Stenocarpus salignus is a species with long, narrow leaves and cream flowers. It is smaller and hardier than Stenocarpus sinuata. Stenocarpus is usually raised from seed.


Telopea


Natives of Australia, the waratah genus includes just four species. The New South Wales waratah (Telopea speciosissima), which is the one most commonly grown has oblong, finely serrated leaves that are up to 125mm long with small notches or lobes at the tips. It develops into a large shrub or small tree up to 5m 5m. The flowers, which are produced in spring and carried at the tips of the branches, are impressively large, bright red, and composed of numerous incurving styles surrounded by red foliage bracts. Several cultivars, such as the semi-dwarf 'Forest Fire' (2m 2m) are reasonably commonly available. The 'Victorian Waratah' (Telopea oreades) is a similar plant with slightly lighter coloured leaves and flowers. Both of these species and the cultivars are hardy to around -8C.


Waratahs prefer moist well-drained soil in full sun and once established they require little care. But many die during the initial establishment period. This is possibly due to essential mycorrhiza failing to establish. These minute fungi form a symbiotic relationship with the plants' roots and are vital in the uptake of nutrients. It has been suggested that taking soil from around an established waratah and putting it around new plants may help lessen these establishment difficulties. Waratahs may be raised from seed or semi-ripe cuttings but they are difficult to raise. Some success has been achieved with tissue culture and this is how some of the new cultivars are produced.


Toronia


The sole species in this genus is the lesser known ofthe twoNew Zealandproteaceous species. Formerly listed as Persoonia toru, it is now known as Toronia toru. A small bushy tree that can grow to about 9m 5m, it is usually far smaller in gardens. The narrow, lanceolate olive green to bronze leaves are about 100mm long but may grow to over 150mm on mature trees in sheltered sites. The buff coloured starry flowers, which appear in late winter and early spring, are carried in racemes and develop from golden brown felted buds. It is easily grown in any moist well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -8C once established. Toronia toru is a relatively unspectacular plant but its flowers are pleasantly honey-scented and it is interesting because it is one of our more unusual natives. This species may be grown from cuttings, but as they are usually difficult to strike, seed is the preferred method.


I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.

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