Monday, June 8, 2009

Common Houseplant Problems

House plants have problems just as your outdoor plants do. They can range from diseases and insects to over and under watering or over and under fertilizing. Knowing what cause the problem is the first step in curing it. With house plants if the base of the plant stem is soft and seems weak, then more than likely the cause is from over watering, simply allow your plant to dry completely out before watering again or re-potting with a good draining soil with a little sand mixed in will also improve your plants.

Leaf Drop "drooping leaves" are another common house plant problem commonly caused by an over exposure to cold or drafts, over fertilizing or to much sun. You should stop fertilizing for three to four weeks and move the plant to a window with a little less sun and check the rooms' temperature and for drafts also the cold from the window at night.

Yellow or Brown Spots means too much water or sun and the soil should be checked for moisture, if it's too wet let it dry out some before the next watering and then move to an area a little less sunny. If the leaves are turning brown then yellowing this may be from several causes, the most common is not enough or too much water or even over fertilization. A re-potting with fresh soil, and holding off on fertilizing for a month or so will generally do the trick, water only when the plant has become completely dry and avoiding too much sun,

Dry brittle leaves means that your home does not have enough humidity and your plants are not getting enough water. A good misting of the leaves and a good soaking of the plant itself is a quick fix for this. Soak the plant by watering it until the water runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, misting can be done with a sprayer or simply wiping the leaves down with a cloth or sponge, this is also a good way to get some of the dust off the leaves, bringing their shine back.

Most house-plants are slow to grow, generally from too little light, water or fertilization. House plants however don't need a lot of fertilizer, when you do fertilize with a slow release fertilizer and extra light can be given by moving the plant to a sunnier location or adding a grow light above it for the extra light it needs.

Eudora DeWynter offers tips on Common Houseplant Problems on her blog at http://www.gardentoolguru.com.

Moisture Against Gravity Destroy

Compost and Save the Planet

Composting is the aerobic decomposition of biodegradable organic matter. It is nature's own and oldest method of waste disposal and soil fertilisation. It "downcycles" organic household and yard waste and manures into an extremely useful humus-like, soil end-product. Furthermore it is widely believed to considerably speed up the natural process of decomposition as a result of the higher temperatures generated.

History

Although composting has historically focussed on creating garden-ready soil, it is becoming more important as a tool for reducing solid waste. It is a popular misconception that it is a "controlled" process as, if the right environmental circumstances are present, the process virtually runs itself. Decomposition occurs throughout nature as garbage dissolves in the absence of all the conditions, and weather patterns, that modern composters talk about; however, the process can be slow.

A compostable material biodegrades substantially into carbon dioxide, methane, water and compost biomass. However,examples of compost-compatible materials include sand particles and inert particles of plastic. A compost-compatible material does not have to be compostable or even biodegradable.

Waste

More than 60 percent of household waste in the United States is recyclable. It is, however, important to engineer the best possible circumstances for large amounts of organic waste to break down properly. Surveys have shown that the #1 reason Americans don't compost their waste is because they feel the process is complicated, time-consuming or requires special equipment. The alternative to landfill, incineration, whilst reducing the mass of the waste, does not dispose of it altogether; approximately 30% of the original mass remains, it still needs to be land filled, and is still a waste of resources. Composting is nature's own and oldest method of waste disposal and soil fertilisation.

Material

The decomposition of material sent to landfill is a principal cause of methane, an important greenhouse gas, so reducing the amount of waste sent to landfill is a key element of the fight against climate change. A biodegradable material is capable of being broken down completely under the action of microorganisms into carbon dioxide, water and biomass The size of the material is a factor in determining compostability because it affects the rate of degradation.

Composting is applied microbiology at its most complex, involving the interactions of thousands upon thousands of different species of microorganisms (2 million individuals per gram) in a highly complex ecosystem. It is indeed a natural way of recycling, harnessing natural processes rather than machinery and man-made chemicals, but it takes people to do it.

Kath Ibbetson qualified as a pharmacologist and then worked in computerized drug databases for 12 years. She has a BSc, a diploma in aromatherapy and a certificate in counselling.

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Pocket Door Problems

Indoor Hydroponics Kits - One Way to Cut the Learning Curve For Hydroponics

Hydroponics does have a technical aspect to it that can be challenging. We're all very familiar with the idea of finding a plant, getting a flowerpot, getting some kind of soil, putting a plant in, give it some food and water on schedule. Even if we haven't done it before, we already have an idea how it's done.

Though hydroponics has been around for longer than 150 years, it is still novel to many. It's not commonly known how efficient a method it is for plant cultivation. Multiple ways to set up hydroponic systems exist depending on the knowledge and ingenuity of the gardener.

Even those of us who lack do-it-yourself skills, would enjoy touch of green in the home. And as beginners we may be reluctant to use hydroponics; it can seem so technical.

We're looking for a plant to complement our life. The reason may be aesthetic. It may be culinary. - the idea of having fresh herbs during the winter months. Or growing cherry tomatoes in a small apartment.

The difficulty when opening up some books on hydroponics you see more technique than plants. Of course, those who have any kind of commercial interest (both legal and illegal), must bring the product to market as efficiently as possible. It makes sense for such growers to have mastered many technical aspects of hydroponic gardening.

So they devote entire grow rooms to their crop: rooms covered in reflective material; lights and lamps of all kinds; complicated methods of watering the system. If you followed their example you would be paying much more in energy and water bills.

However, you may be living in a small apartment or studio. All you have space for is one or two plants.

The simplest solution is to buy an indoor hydroponics kit such as Aerogrow's Aerogarden. Anyone, with or without gardening experience, can succeed in growing lush, beautiful gardens. Simply add water, drop in the pre-seeded grow plugs, turn it on and watch it grow. The system automatically turns the grow lights on and off and reminds when to add water and nutrients. For more information, see http://www.indoorhydroponicsblog.com

Exterior Wood Beams

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Holy Moly! Honey-We Got Moles!

The tiny mole can wreak havoc on your yard and make you crazy in the process. It is the battle between you and the mole and you are not going down without a fight! You had a beautiful lawn, but now what?

Frustrated and upset, I bet. Where do you go from here? Traps work great. Moles have been trapped for hundreds of years and some trap designs have changed little over time. Why change if it works and solves the problem?

Children and pets also benefit by not being subjected to chemicals sprayed on your lawn where they play. Trapping is a non-toxic solution to mole control. Home remedies rarely if ever work. Drowning, gum and so many other things have been tried and of course have failed. Sometimes we are as stubborn as the mole is!

You are going to be a better mole trapper if you receive some training. That training should come from someone that knows how to catch moles and knows their biology. You have to know how a criminal behaves to catch them. So true is it for mole control.

Moles can be removed and the problem can be solved. Some people think they will always have a problem with them and it is not worth the trouble to remove the ones in their yard. I am here to assure you, that you can live without them through proper management of the animal.

So, next time you are thinking you should pull back and retreat, pull out your handy mole traps, knock the rust off of them and put them in the ground. You will be glad you

Mark Dotson, Wildlife Control Expert and veteran mole control professional. To learn more about mole control, visit http://www.moletrapping.com

Getting Rid Of Horrible Attic Sm

3 Compelling Reasons Why You Should Use a Professional Garden Fence Erector

The weekend arrives. The posts and fence panels have been sitting in the garden for a couple of weeks. You are ready. You don your wellies, grab your spade and toolbox and head outside. You lay out the fence posts where you want them and pick up the first metal spike. You push it into the ground to get it started. Then you get the sledgehammer and bang it in. As it goes deeper, it starts to twist, OK, no problem, you simply twist it back and carry on. It twists again. 30 minutes later, the spike is in place, still twisted and also slightly wobbly. Ah well, you think, the whole thing will tighten up when the panels are nailed in place ...

OK, so you have decided that you want a garden fence. Putting up a boundary fence is pretty easy, right? Well yes, but the problem is, will it be a good fence or will it fall down prematurely? If you call in a professional fencer, you can be assured that it will last longer than most DIY fences. Economy is not always about getting the job done for the cheapest initial price. Anyway, here are three good reasons why employing a professional to erect your garden fence is more economical than doing it yourself.

One - deciding on the appropriate materials. You will end up spending hours deciding on the best type of fencing, or if you don't, you could easily end up with the wrong type of fence in the wrong place. Your fence could be over engineered for the location, in which case you will have spent more than necessary or it could be under engineered and will need replacing sooner than it would if it were done properly. Will you make your own fence from scratch or will you buy prepared panels? Will you set the posts in concrete or use metal drive-in footings? These and the many other questions will be answered almost immediately by a professional.

Two - obtaining the materials. Again, this will cost you a lot of time to source the materials. You will need to decide if you are going to get them from a garden centre or DIY chain store so you will need to go to both to check them out. Unless you have a large vehicle, your materials supplier will have to deliver. This can mean delays as they will need to schedule them in to their system and in some cases, you will have to pay a delivery charge. When they arrive, they will need to be stored somewhere until you get round to doing the work yourself. A professional fencer will collect the materials and store them at his or her premises until the agreed erection date arrives.

Three - erecting the fence. This is the crucial step, you will need to make sure that your fence posts are exactly in line, fixed into the ground firmly and that each post is vertical and not twisted otherwise weak points will be introduced into the structure. All this takes time and skill. OK, it's not rocket science but it does take a while to develop the skills so DIY will be slow going, unless you are happy with a sloppy job. The skills of a professional garden fencer are already there and you will be amazed at how fast and accurately they can do it. They will have the right tools for the job and be able to use them with skill. No twisted support spikes for them! Stress free, unlike the scenario of the opening paragraph.

Not convinced? Well that's up to you. Just think about what you could be doing with that extra free time that paying someone else to do your fence would give you.

Get a garden fence that will be the envy of your neighbours. Contact Luke Harrison now for garden fencing in south Derbyshire, for professional garden fencing services

Toilet Paper Under The Bathroom

How to Grow Healthy Houseplants

Adding plants to your home brings in color and life. Many plant varieties help clean the air and at the same time compliment the environment of your home. Seeing a healthy, lush and lovely plant is something everyone enjoys.

Taking care of your plants does not have to be a burden either. You can select plants that require minimal maintenance and just a bit of watering, and occasionally some light pruning. There are also plants that require no fertilizer and will grow well in just about any type of lighting situation.

Growth rates are going to vary between each plant species. You may choose one that changes weekly or pick a plant that reaches its full growth over a matter of years. If you want to see fast progress, then consider the fact that you will need to repot quite frequently. Some plants do so well, that they can actually split a clay pot in two. Other plants remain unchanged for long periods of time, making them suitable for a stable focal point in your homes design.

You can buy plants that bloom and grow at certain times of the year as well. Some flowering type plants will grow flower blossoms at the end of the winter season. While others grow in late summer, there are many in between as well. You can have a wide array cf flowers and colors all year round.

There are also exotic plants that you can choose from. You can purchase a carnivorous plant, which require considerable care, but they are noted for their beauty and are very different than their plain cousins. They can even clear your home of those pesky flies that wander into the home.

When taking care of a plant, there is always going to be some degree of work involved.

There are some plants that are insect and disease resistant, however nearly all will encounter some sort of problem. Mites, aphids and other pests can be easily eradicated though by using a mild insecticide.

Not watering your plants enough kills more plants then any pests do. But, over watering is one of the most common mistakes an owner can make. If the soil on top of the plant looks and feel dry, we react by watering the plant generously. In this eagerness to help our plant, we may actually be doing more damage. You need to know how much water your plant requires, when and monitor it carefully, this can solve this problem.

Once you understand the basics, you will be able to take the next step and start planting seeds or doing cuttings. You are just one step beyond needing to repotting indoor plants and growing your plants on your own can be a very rewarding experience.

Finding quality seeds and the right type of cuttings will ensure you get off to the right start. Adding the proper type of fertilizer at the opportune time will also give your new plant the best chance for success. Also make sure to provide ample lighting and nature will take over.

Your houseplants will give you years of beauty and joy that will enrich your household. By investing a bit of time and learning how to take care of your plants correctly, they will reward you several times over.

Now you can remove the confusion in your mind on the topic of air cleaning indoor plants We make the information simple, visit plant-care.com.

Installing Windows At A Eye Leve

Squash is a Big Hit in the Greenhouse - Over 500 Pounds of Squash in a Single Season

It started as a modest project to build a raised bed greenhouse for growing squash. You might say it was a necessity because of the dry and wind-swept climate we have here in Wyoming. It turned out to be an excellent investment in time and money, as it has paid us back in its first season with more than 500 pounds of vegetables. Let me tell you about the squash we raised in our homemade greenhouse.

The greenhouse was constructed using power poles, tin, ripstop poly sheeting, and chain link fencing top rail. I constructed a twin raised bed greenhouse that is a strong and able producer of both winter and summer squash. The beds are narrow and long, and covered with fabric mulch, and the whole thing is watered with a drip system.

The vegetables we planted were pitiful little seedlings with two or three leaves. We planted two each of six varieties of summer squash, and two each of six varieties of winter squash. Our summer squash consisted of Butterstick, Starship, Sunburst, Woods Bush Scallop, Gold Rush, and Magda.

Our winter squash consisted of Butternut, Thelma Sanders, Bush Delicata, Sweet Dumpling Delicata, Table Queen and Small Wonder. We put the summer squash on the south bed and the winter squash on the north bed. The winter squash were mostly a vine type of growth, whereas the summer squash were all bush varieties.

The growth of the squash was remarkable, and the care was easy. The tiny seedlings took a little while to get established, and then quickly put out more leaves. We pulled the few weeds that snuck out from under the fabric mulch to keep them from competing with the seedlings.

The summer squash started early with blossoms and setting fruit. Since it was still a bit cool outside, we hand pollinated with small water color paint brushes until the bumble bees took over. Once they took over, it was a haven for bumble bees, and they flew from blossom to blossom all covered in pollen during most of the day.

The squash were watered every couple days with the drip system. Once they reached a larger size and started to grow fruit, we watered each day for an hour or so. After they were in full production, we extended the watering times to make certain they were getting plenty of water to support all the fruit they were producing. They responded well and started to encroach on the walkway, eventually making it hard to walk the length of the center path. It was a jungle on the south side of the "squash house".

The winter squash were allowed to crawl and climb in any direction, and often had to be turned around to keep from piling up at the ends of the bed, or flowing over into the sunken walkway. Trellises were a welcomed feature for the long-vined winter squash. We hand pollinated them as well until the bumble bees took over. Later in the season, we bumped our heads on the fruit that hung down in the center of the walkway. It was a jungle on the north side of the "squash house" as well.

The harvest was a bit more than expected. Every 4 days during the mid-summer harvest, we collected 8 to 12 pounds of fruit, and that harvest continued for at least 2 and 1/2 months. On occasion we let the squash develop for another week, and then we harvested about 45 pounds on a single day. We estimate more than 300 pounds of squash was harvested for canning, freezing, fresh eating, and sharing with our friends and neighbors.

The winter squash had to wait for its "show" at the end of the season. More than 200 pounds lay on the fabric mulch, hung on the trellises, and dangled overhead on the joists of my homemade greenhouse. We are set for squash this winter, and we'll save money on groceries because we won't be buying much produce at all.

If you're interested in an abundance of food from a relatively small space, I suggest you consider your own "squash house". Come see how we were wowed by the miracle of seed, soil, water and sunlight.

Clair Schwan is an expert in frugal living, and has constructed three homemade greenhouses to help kiss goodbye to the high price of groceries. See his greenhouse gardens and other frugal living tips at http://www.frugal-living-freedom.com

Electrical Outlet Problems

The Protea Family (Proteaceae)

The protea family (Proteaceae) includes a wide range of ground covers, trees and shrubs that often make superb garden plants. While some of the species are frost-tender, they are in all other respects remarkably resilient plants that often thrive in situations where others would rapidly succumb. Poor soils and hot dry positions that scarcely seem capable of supporting life are often ideal for Proteaceae. If any plants could be said to thrive on neglect the proteas can.


Proteas (the term is often used collectively as well as for the genus itself) are a variable group. Indeed, the family was named after Proteus, a Greek god capable of changing his shape at will. It includes some 60 genera and 1400 species of Southern Hemisphere plants, the bulk of which are native to southern Africa and Australia with the remainder coming from South America and many of the Pacific islands, including two species (Knightia excelsa and Toronia toru) from New Zealand.


There is an enormous variety of foliage among the proteas. It is almost always evergreen, but may be needle-like, as with many grevilleas; long, narrow and serrated like that of Dryandra formosa; or rounded and leathery like the leaves of Protea cynaroides. Some genera, particularly Leucadendron, include species with brightly coloured foliage, the intensity of which varies with the season. Leucadendron stems retain their colour for weeks when cut and are an important part of the cut flower industry.


Protea flowers are composed of clusters of narrow tubes that are often curved. These 'spider' flowers are seen at their simplest in the two native species and some of the grevilleas. In many cases what appears to be the flower is actually a bract of brightly coloured leaves surrounding the true flowers. The most impressive example of this is the dinner plate-sized flower head of Protea cynaroides. The flowering season also varies; many proteas and grevilleas flower in winter, while leucospermums tend to flower in summer. With careful selection it is possible to plants in flower all year round.


The flowers often contain large quantities of nectar that many birds relish. Some species have very sticky flowers that will trap visiting insects, especially bees an this slightly sinister side of the flower appears to serve no particular purpose.


The South African and Australian Proteaceae tend to be at their best in warm, dry conditions and often thrive in coastal areas. Inland, unseasonable early and late frosts often kill all but the hardiest specimens. The South American genera tend to be hardier and prefer somewhat damper conditions. Embothrium in particular, can withstand hard frosts and is grown over most of the country. But where winter temperatures regularly drop to -6C or lower, most proteas require frost protection.


Cultivation


Other than a suitable climate, the key to success with proteas is establishing the right soil conditions. The protea family is mainly adapted to mineral based soils that drain very quickly and which often have low nutrient levels. These soils tend to be moderately acid and are often especially low in phosphates.


Good drainage is absolutely essential. Rich loams and heavy clays do not make good protea soils. If you have a heavy soil do not try to improve it by adding sand or shingle as this will often make the problem worse; the soil binds with the sand and shingle and sets like concrete. Instead add more humus. Proteas would not appreciate the rapid burst of nutrients from a rich compost so the humus used should be fairly low in nutrients. Natural leaf mould and rotted pine needles work well. To avoid these materials compacting down into a poor draining thatch, incorporate about 50% fine shingle grit by volume and combine the mix with the existing soil.


Most proteaceous plants come from areas with low rainfall or where the rains are strictly seasonal. Many are coastal plants although most of the South African genera include alpine or sub-alpine species. Knightia from New Zealand and Embothrium from Chile are exceptions; they usually occur away from the coast, in areas where rainfall is quite high and not seasonal. Nevertheless, they still demand excellent drainage.


Although proteas are remarkably resilient and not difficult to grow there seems to be some common myths regarding their cultivation. Like most myths these have some basis in fact, but they can be misleading.


Myth 1: feeding proteas will kill them.


That's not strictly true. Proteas need nutrients just like any other plant, but their are a little more exacting than some. It's not fertiliser that does the damage but high phosphate levels and intense bursts of nutrients that lead to overly rapid growth. Avoid most general garden fertilisers, fresh animal manures and anything with added superphosphate. Because proteas will tolerate poor soils, it is often easier not to feed them rather than risk damage, but you'll certainly get better results if you apply a slow release, low phosphate fertiliser in late winter and mid summer. This will keep the plants growing slowly but steadily; any bolting into growth tends to weaken them.


Myth 2: proteas only grow near the coast.


Not true. Many proteaceous plants come from inland areas. They will tolerate salt breezes but there is no general preference for coastal conditions.


Myth 3: proteas like wind.


That's also not entirely true. Proteaceous plants do not tolerate wet foliage or high humidity for long periods and in areas prone to these conditions extra ventilation will help reduce the incidence of fungal diseases. However, most proteas have brittle branches that snap or split in strong winds so there's no reason to presume that they prefer windy locations.


Myth 4: proteas need a hot sunny position.


Yes, most Proteaceae prefer full sun or something near to it. But that doesn't necessarily mean the hottest, most baked position you can find. Although they will survive severe conditions once established, extreme heat and drought will cause damage, especially to young plants. Shade from the hottest sun will prolong the flower display and, provided the drainage is good, occasional deep watering is also recommended.


Myth 5: proteas are short-lived.



Some are and some aren't. Old plants are normally removed long before the end of their natural lives because they tend to become rather woody and untidy. You can generally reckon on a useful lifetime of at least 8 years for Leucadendron and Leucospermum, and around 12 years for Protea. However, large species, such as Grevillea robusta and Banksia integrifolia, may continue to be effective garden plants for several decades.


Planting


Most proteaceous plants are sold in containers and are ready to plant right away. However, the best planting time depends on your climate. Autumn or winter is best in mild areas as this is when moisture requirements are at their lowest, while spring is the preferred time if regular frosts are expected as this allows the young plants to get well established before having to endure winter conditions.


Start by digging a hole at least twice the size of the plant's container, this large volume of loose soil will encourage good root development.. Additional drainage material can be added to the hole if necessary, otherwise planting is just a matter of removing the plant from its container, loosening any spiralling roots before placing in the hole, then refilling the hole and firming the plant into position. Large specimens will require staking to prevent wind damage.


Cut flower use


Many proteaceous plants make excellent long-lasting cut flowers. Leucadendrons in particular are widely planted solely for the purpose of providing material for floral decorations. Protea, Leucospermum, Banksia and Serruria flowers can all be used to make impressive large arrangements while the less dramatic blooms of Grevillea and Isopogon are better suited to more dainty work.


Some flowers, particularly goblet-shaped Protea flowers dry well although they do tend to disintegrate rather suddenly after a few months. Other genera such as Banksia and Leucadendron produce seed heads or cones that can be used in dried arrangements.


Pruning


Most proteaceous plants need occasional trimming and tidying. This may be to improve their growth habit or to remove old flowers or seed heads that have become dry and unsightly.


How far to cut back is the usual question. This varies with the genera, although as a rule only light pruning is recommended as there is a general reluctance among proteas to reshoot from bare wood. Of the common genera Banksia and Grevillea will withstand hard trimming, as will Leucadendron, Telopea and Mimetes, but pruning of Dryandra, Leucospermum, Serruria, Paranomus and most Protea species should be restricted to a light annual trimming.


The best time to prune is usually immediately after flowering unless you want to leave a few seed heads to mature for use as dried decorations. In areas where there is the possibility of frost damage, it is advisable to leave pruning autumn and winter-flowering plants until spring.


Container Growing


Some proteaceae can make good container plants, but you will have to be careful with your choice of potting mixes and fertilisers. Potting mixes need to be very free draining and often benefit from added coarse material such as shingle chips or pumice. Bark based mixes seem to work well but some growers feel they produce too much ethylene, which may harm the plants in the long run. Many commercial growers use soil based mixes and they generally prefer relatively poor and gritty volcanic soils.


Even plants with low nutrient demands will eventually exhaust their potting mix, so you will have to apply fertiliser occasionally. Use mild liquid fertilisers or special low-phosphate slow release pellets. Provided you are cautious the plants should respond well.


Propagation


Proteas can be frustratingly difficult plants to propagate. Fresh seed often germinates well only for the seedlings to collapse after a few weeks. This is usually due to a fungal disease that blackens the foliage and eventually kills the young seedlings. Regular fungicide applications are important. Prick out the young seedlings into a coarse, free draining, unfertilised potting mix once they have their first true leaves.


Cultivars and selected forms must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings in late summer and autumn. The success rate varies markedly; some cultivars, such as Leucadendron 'Safari Sunset', strike quite easily while many others may be virtually impossible without professional equipment.


Pests and Diseases


Grown under the right conditions proteaceous plants are relatively free of pests and diseases, or rather they're not attacked by anything out of the ordinary. The most widespread problems are leaf roller caterpillars and scale insects, which can eventually lead to sooty mould.


When growing proteas from seed you will doubtless lose some to the fungal disease mentioned above. This disease, which appears to be a type of damping off, can sometimes also attack more mature plants. It appears to be far worse in excessively wet conditions or after long periods of high humidity. Good ventilation and avoidance of overcrowding are effective preventatives and regular spraying with fungicides may control the problem.


Common genera


Many of these plants are not widely available at garden centres, although specialist growers would consider them to be just the most common genera and are likely to stock others as well. All of the species and genera covered here are evergreen unless otherwise stated.


Aulax


This is a South African genus of small to medium sized shrubs. This genus and Leucadendron are the only dioecious (separate male and female plants) members of the Proteaceae. Seed of all three species, Aulax cancellata, Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, is available but only Aulax cancellata is commonly planted. It grows to 1.5-2m 1m and has fine needle-like leaves. In spring, female plants produce red edged yellow flowers that develop into red seed cones. The catkin-like male flowers are yellow, as are those of Aulax pallasia and Aulax umbellata, the female flowers of which are not very showy. Aulax pallasia grows to about 3 m and Aulax umbellata about 1.5m. All are hardy to about -5C and are usually raised from seed.


Banksia


An Australian genus of about 60 species, ranging in size from ground covers to medium-sized trees. The flowering season is primarily from late winter to late spring and most species have cylindrical cone-like flower heads composed of densely packed filamentous styles radiating from a central core. Creamy yellow to light golden-yellow is the predominant colour range, although a few species, such as Banksia ericifolia and Banksia praemorsa, have golden-orange flowers and those of Banksia coccinea are red. Most species have narrow serrated leaves that are mid to deep green above and silvery grey on the undersides but Banksia ericifolia has fine needle-like leaves. Leaf size varies from very small up to the 50cm long leaves of Banksia grandis. Hardiness varies with the species, some are quite frost tender but some will tolerate -10C.


Relatively few are seen in nurseries but the seed of most species can be obtained from Australia. Banksia ericifolia and Banksia integrifolia are the most widely grown and are also the hardiest of the common species, both withstanding -10C once well established. There are hardly any cultivars or selected forms of Banksia in cultivation. Species may be raised from seed and most will also strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings.


Dryandra


An Australian genus of around 60 species of shrubs ranging in height from about 1-4 m. Most have narrow, mid to deep green leaves that are often very long and narrow with sharply toothed edges. The rounded flower heads, which appear from mid winter, are usually light to bright yellow. The most common species is Dryandra formosa, which grows to about 3m and is hardy to around -5C once established (most of the other species are less hardy). Dryandras are superb long-lasting cut flowers and some will also dry well. They will grow on extremely poor soil and generally react badly to most fertilisers. Raise from seed or semi-ripe cuttings, which are often difficult to strike.


Embothrium


The Chilean Fire Bush (Embothrium coccineum) is a small tree around 5m 2.5m. It has 100mm long, leathery, bright green leaves that may become somewhat sparse on older plants. In mid to late spring the tree turns vivid orange-red as the honeysuckle-like tubular flowers open -the flowering season is brief but spectacular. Two forms are grown: 'Longifolium' and 'Lanceolatum'; 'Longifolium' is the more common cultivar. It is a vigorous upright plant that is quite drought tolerant and hardy to about -10C. 'Lanceolatum' is a stockier grower with narrow leaves. It demands more moisture but withstands harder frosts, up to -15C with some protection. However, in very cold winters it may lose up to two thirds of its foliage. Overall Embothrium requires more moisture than most Proteaceae but good drainage is still important. It may be grown from seed but is usually propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.


Grevillea


With some 250 species, this is the largest of the Australian proteaceous genera. Most of the common garden species and cultivars are ground covers to medium-sized shrubs (up to 3m) with needle-like foliage. However, some species are far larger. The silky oak (Grevillea robusta), which is often seen in mild area, can grow to 20m and in common with most of the larger species it has large pinnate leaves. Grevillea banksii has similar foliage but only grows to about 3.5m 3m.


The more densely foliaged plants, especially Grevillea juniperina and Grevillea rosmarinifolia, are often used as hedging plants. These plants grow to at least 1.5m high.


Grevillea flowers are often describe as 'spider flowers'. This refers to the styles of some species, which tend to radiate from the centre like a spider's legs. Some species have 'toothbrush' flowers; the styles are all on one side like the bristles of a toothbrush. The best known example of this type of flower is the common red-flowered cultivar 'Robin Hood'.


Many Grevillea cultivars arecultivated and they generally adapt well togarden conditions. Among the more popular are 'Jenkinsii' (a heavy flowering form of the red-flowered Grevillea rosmarinifolia), 'Robyn Gordon' (orange-red to red toothbrush flowers) gaudichaudii (deep red), 'Austraflora Canterbury Gold' (light golden yellow) and many of the Poorinda cultivars. Grevilleas are among the more widely available proteaceous plants and most nurseries stock a good selection.


The species and hybrids vary enormously in hardiness. Some will stand little or no frost but others, such as Grevillea rosmarinifolia, will tolerate frosts of -10C or lower; all prefer full sun with good drainage. The species are easily raised from seed and most hybrids strike quite freely from semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer or autumn.


Hakea


This Australian genus includes about 130 species, few of which are widely cultivated. The most common is probably Hakea laurina, the Pincushion Hakea. When not in flower, this species could easily be mistaken for a small eucalyptus. It has bluish-green narrow, oblong to sickle-shaped leaves and reddish-brown bark. It grows to about 6m 4m and mature trees have a slightly weeping habit. The name pincushion refers to the flowers, which are spherical, with numerous radiating styles. They appear in late autumn and early winter, opening cream and turning to orange and red as they age. This shrub is hardy to about -5C once well established and is easily grown in most well-drained soils.


Of the other species, the most common are Hakea salicifolia, Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea. They are hardy to about -8C or slightly lower and are easily grown in most soils. Hakea salicifolia has narrow, willow-like leaves, spidery, white flowers that are produced in spring. It grows up to 5m high and will tolerate poor drainage. Hakea prostrata and Hakea sericea have fine needle-like leaves and white or pale pink flowers in winter and early spring. It grows to about 3m 2m. All member of this genus are usually raised from seed but some can be grown from cuttings. A few, such as H. franciscana, are weak growers that often perform better when grafted onto more vigorous stocks, such as Hakea salicifolia.


Isopogon


Drumsticks, which refers to the shape of the flower stems and unopened buds, is a name often used for Isopogon anemonifolius but it can also be applied to the genus as a whole. It is an Australian genus of 34 species of small to medium sized shrubs, most of which grow from 1-2m high and about as wide. They have a preference for poor but well-drained soil and will quickly collapse if over-watered or overfed. Most species have narrow lanceolate leaves about 75mm long and some, such as the common Isopogon anemonifolius, have finely cut foliage reminiscent of Marguerite daisy or Anemone leaves.


The flower heads, which open in spring and early summer, are composed of a central cone from which radiate numerous styles. Some species have short stiff styles but in others they are long and filamentous. The flower colours are mainly white, yellow or pink. The two most widely grown species, Isopogon anemonifolius and Isopogon anethifolius are hardy to about -5C, but many species, such as Isopogon cuneatus and the temptingly beautiful pink and yellow-flowered Isopogon latifolius, are damaged at temperatures below -2C. Isopogon species are usually raised from seed.


Knightia


The Rewa Rewa or New Zealand Honeysuckle (Knightia excelsa) is the best known of the twoNew Zealandproteaceous species. In the wild it can grow to be a tall narrow tree up to 25m high and it is one of the few proteaceous plants to have been harvested for its timber, which is very attractively marked. In gardens it is more restrained and seldom exceeds 8m 3.5m. Rewa rewa has semi-glossy, deep green to bronze-green, narrow, lanceolate to oblong leaves that are very tough and leathery. In summer it produces tubular honeysuckle-like flowers that develop from buds covered in a reddish brown tomentum. As the flowers open the tomentum covered sepals and the petals curl back to form a congested mass in the centre of the flower head. The flowers, which can smell unpleasant, are followed by conspicuous brown, velvety seed pods. Rewa Rewa is easily grown in moist well-drained soil in sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -5C or slightly lower once established. It may be grown in any coastal area if protected when young. New Zealand honeysuckle is usually raised from seed and garden centres often stock ready-grown plants.


Leucadendron


Species of this genus are the most widely grown of the South African Proteaceae and many are valued for the long-lasting qualities of their flower bracts once cut. Most are medium-sized shrubs around 1-2.5m high. However, one of the best known species, the silver tree (Leucadendron argenteum), can grow to 10m high and the less widely grown Leucadendron eucalyptifolium may reach 5m.


Many species and cultivars are grown, but probably the most widely planted is 'Safari Sunset'. It is a hybrid between Leucadendron laureolum and Leucadendron salignum and is fairly typical of the genus. It has narrow, lanceolate leaves that are up to 100mm long. Some species, such as L. argenteum, have tomentose foliage but 'Safari Sunset' does not. The upward-facing foliage densely covers the narrow, upright branches and develops deep red tints at the flowering tips. Deep red leaf bracts enclose the flower cones. As the insignificant flowers near maturity, the bracts become intensely coloured. 'Safari Sunset' has red bracts but others develop cream, yellow, pink or orange tones. 'Wilson's Wonder' (yellow and orange-red), 'Maui Sunset' (cream, yellow and red) and 'Rewa Gold' (yellow) are among the most spectacular. Leucadendrons generally develop their best colours from mid to late winter but 'Jester' a pink, cream and green variegated sport of 'Safari Sunset' is brightly coloured throughout the year.


The species and hybrids vary considerably in hardiness but most will tolerate frosts of at least -3C provided they have good drainage and the humidity is not excessive. 'Safari Sunset' is hardy to about -8C and most of the numerous Leucadendron salignum and Leucadendron laureolum hybrids are nearly as hardy. In the North Island leucadendrons generally thrive in all but the coldest central areas and they can be grown with varying degrees of success in all coastal areas of the South Island.


Leucadendrons can be tricky to propagate. Reasonably firm cuttings taken in early autumn are usually the easiest to strike but gardeners without specialised propagating facilities may experience problems and although seed germinates well, it is inclined to damp off. Garden centres often stock a good range of plants.


Leucospermum


A South African genus of about 50 species, most of which are medium to large shrubs that grow to about 1.5-3m high. Some, such as Leucospermum reflexum, have strongly upright growth habits but most, including the commonly cultivated species, Leucospermum cordifolium, are dense and bushy. Both of these species have tomentose greyish-green leaves that are usually broadly oval shaped, often with small red-tipped lobes. The leaves of Leucospermum reflexum are narrower and greyer than those of Leucospermum cordifolium. Leucospermum reflexum can grow to 3m 3m but Leucospermum cordifolium is usually around 1.5m 1.5m.


The flowers are variously described as Catherine wheels, pincushions and sky rockets, all of which refer to the numerous radiating styles. These are often incurved, creating a cupped effect. The flower heads of Leucospermum cordifolium are quite globular while those of Leucospermum reflexum have drooping styles at the base of the flower. The flowers usually appear in late spring and continue for about two months. They are attractive when fresh but often become unsightly once they die off.


Most garden leucospermums are cultivars of Leucospermum cordifolium and are hardy to occasional frosts of about -5C, but they resent wet or humid winter conditions, which can often lead to tip die back. Good drainage is also very important. Cuttings taken in early autumn are the most likely to strike but without proper equipment they may prove difficult and seed often germinates well only to be killed by fungal diseases. Gritty well-drained soil, regular fungicide use and just enough water to keep the seedlings standing up are the keys to success. The orange-flowered 'Harry Chittick' is the plant most commonly stocked by nurseries and it is one that performs very well.


Mimetes


This South African genus includes 11 species, only one of which is widely grown. Mimetes cucullatus has 40mm long oblong leaves with small lobes at the tips, that densely cover the branches like upward facing scales. The small white flowers are enclosed within leaf bracts that change colour to a bright red as the flower buds mature. Mimetes may flower throughout the year but is usually at its best in late spring when the new growth appears, as this is also red. Mimetes cucullatus grows to about 1.5m 1.5m and is hardy to around -3C. It prefers moist, well-drained soil and is not very drought tolerant. This species is usually raised from seed.


Paranomus


The most common species of this 18-species genus, Paranomus reflexus, is an undemanding 1.5m 1.8m bush with bright yellow bottle-brush-like flower heads in winter and spring. The foliage is anemone-like and very finely cut; the flower stems have small diamond shaped leaves just below the flower heads. It is easily grown in any well-drained soil in full sun. Although the plant is hardy to about -5C, the flowers are damaged by frosts over -2C. It is usually raised from seed.


Persoonia


An Australian genus of around 75 species of shrubs, mostly under 2 m tall and some quite small. Known as geebungs, by far the best-known species is the Pine-leaf Geebung (Persoonia pinifolia), an eastern Australian native that is one of the larger species, capable of reaching 3 m tall. It has a weeping habit, fine needle-like leaves and small yellow flowers. Most geebungs will tolerate about 2 to 5C of frost.


Protea


Protea is a genus of about 80 species that is confined to southern Africa and concentrated around the Cape of Good Hope. The species range in size from less than 50cm high to over 4m. Most commonly grown proteas are small to medium sized shrubs in the 1-2.5m high range.


The best known species is Protea neriifolia. It has narrow leaves up to 150mm long that are covered with a fine tomentum when young. In autumn, winter and spring, upright, 125mm long 75mm wide goblet-shaped flowers are carried at the tips of the branches. They are composed of a woolly central cone surrounded by overlapping, upward-facing, petal-like, deep reddish-pink bracts tipped with a fringe of black hairs. Many forms with varying colours of bract and tip hairs are grown. Several other species, such as Protea magnifica and Protea laurifolia, have similar flowers.


The central cone, often with many incurving styles, is common to all Protea species but the arrangement of the bracts varies. Many have them arranged in a stellate or star-shaped fashion. The King Protea (Protea cynaroides) is the best known of this type. Its flowers can be up to 300mm in diameter. The flowers of the king protea face upwards but others, such as greenish-yellow-flowered Protea sulphurea, have downward facing flowers.


The foliage is also variable. It may be needle-like, as in Protea nana, lanceolate, oblong or rounded. It can be silvery grey, glaucous or bright green depending on the species and it may or may not be tomentose.


Likewise, hardiness varies considerably. Most species will tolerate at least -3C with good drainage and low humidity but many are considerably tougher. Protea neriifolia will withstand -5C and Protea grandiceps will often survive -10C when well established. Proteas do well over most of the North Island and many species can be grown as far south as Christchurch with a little winter protection.


Protea species are often raised from seed, which germinates well, but the seedlings may be difficult to keep alive. Hybrids and cultivars must be propagated vegetatively. The usual method is firm semi-ripe cuttings taken in late summer and autumn. Specialist growers stock many species and cultivars while garden centres seldom have anything other than the most common plants.


Serruria


Blushing Bride (Serruria florida) is very popular with florists because its Nigella-like papery white bracts are very delicate and last well as cut flowers. The bracts, which are surrounded with finely cut lacy leaves, are produced freely in winter and spring. Blushing Bride can be difficult to grow, because not only is it frost tender (it tolerates only occasional exposure to -2C), it must also have full sun and absolutely perfect drainage. It is one of a genus of 44 species from South Africa, of which the only other species commonly grown is Serruria rosea. It is a densely foliaged 70cm 90cm bush with small pink bracts and is slightly hardier and definitely easier to grow than Serruria florida. Serruria species should be raised from seed.


Stenocarpus


The Queensland Firewheel Tree (Stenocarpus sinuata) is a large tree (12m 8m) that produces a magnificent display of orange to red flowers in summer. It has large, glossy, dark green leaves that are deeply lobed. The flowers are tubular and are carried in flattened clusters that radiate spoke-like from a central hub, hence the name firewheel tree. It is hardy to about -4C once well established but is very tender when young and does best in moist well-drained soil in full sun. Stenocarpus salignus is a species with long, narrow leaves and cream flowers. It is smaller and hardier than Stenocarpus sinuata. Stenocarpus is usually raised from seed.


Telopea


Natives of Australia, the waratah genus includes just four species. The New South Wales waratah (Telopea speciosissima), which is the one most commonly grown has oblong, finely serrated leaves that are up to 125mm long with small notches or lobes at the tips. It develops into a large shrub or small tree up to 5m 5m. The flowers, which are produced in spring and carried at the tips of the branches, are impressively large, bright red, and composed of numerous incurving styles surrounded by red foliage bracts. Several cultivars, such as the semi-dwarf 'Forest Fire' (2m 2m) are reasonably commonly available. The 'Victorian Waratah' (Telopea oreades) is a similar plant with slightly lighter coloured leaves and flowers. Both of these species and the cultivars are hardy to around -8C.


Waratahs prefer moist well-drained soil in full sun and once established they require little care. But many die during the initial establishment period. This is possibly due to essential mycorrhiza failing to establish. These minute fungi form a symbiotic relationship with the plants' roots and are vital in the uptake of nutrients. It has been suggested that taking soil from around an established waratah and putting it around new plants may help lessen these establishment difficulties. Waratahs may be raised from seed or semi-ripe cuttings but they are difficult to raise. Some success has been achieved with tissue culture and this is how some of the new cultivars are produced.


Toronia


The sole species in this genus is the lesser known ofthe twoNew Zealandproteaceous species. Formerly listed as Persoonia toru, it is now known as Toronia toru. A small bushy tree that can grow to about 9m 5m, it is usually far smaller in gardens. The narrow, lanceolate olive green to bronze leaves are about 100mm long but may grow to over 150mm on mature trees in sheltered sites. The buff coloured starry flowers, which appear in late winter and early spring, are carried in racemes and develop from golden brown felted buds. It is easily grown in any moist well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade and is hardy to about -8C once established. Toronia toru is a relatively unspectacular plant but its flowers are pleasantly honey-scented and it is interesting because it is one of our more unusual natives. This species may be grown from cuttings, but as they are usually difficult to strike, seed is the preferred method.


I am a garden book author and horticultural photographer based in Christchurch, New Zealand. I run a stock photo library called Country, Farm and Garden (http://www.cfgphoto.com). This article may be re-published provided this information is published with it and is clearly visible.

Problems With Black Mold

Compost - Magic Mulch

Compost can be too much of good thing when the pile is ready when all the garden beds are full. A little can be used for compost tea but what is one to do with the black gold when all the flowers are blooming and the veggies are growing to beat the band? If you do not want to dig up the soil, why not leave it and have your compost too?

For many gardeners, mulching is the best thing since sliced bread. A good layer of mulch, at least three inches thick, keeps soil cool in the summer heat and allows the roots to move out into the surrounding area near the surface where many nutrients lie. It will solve many water problems by preventing rain from splashing hard on the soil surface so as to prevent erosion while at the same time it slows evaporation by covering the soil surface. Water simply goes further. Plus the mulch aids against the age old scourge of the gardener, weeds. In the same manner that a box left on the lawn kills grass, mulch prevents sunshine from getting to those weeds and thus kills them.

While some gardeners advocate a year round mulch on the garden and even compost by burying their kitchen waste under the mulch layer, for others this is an invitation to every bug and veggie eating critter in miles. For us it is necessary to remove the mulch at the end of the garden season to allow the winter to kill the bugs. So if we are going to use a mulch it has to be added for the growing times. Furthermore, those of us with a cold spring as in most of the US and Canada, an early mulch slows the ground heating and the seeds starting.

Compost answers all the problems in the growing season. A well made compost can be applied deeply in the middle of summer without problem and serves as a feeding mulch for the plants. Every rain or watering makes compost tea that filters quickly to the roots for a feeding burst. Its loose structure and texture make it ideal for maneuvering around growing stems and leaves. If you garden in rows it can easily be added by the shovel full as you move up and down the garden. Raised bed gardeners can throw it around the plants by the handful even where the close plantings make their own growing mulch.

At the end of season the compost mulch can be left till spring or it can be dug in for winter. If left on top it serves as a barrier to wind erosion of the soil. If it is dug in the soil needs some other means of cover. In fact, for fantastic soil in our norther climate, the compost can be dug in and planted with annual rye that will sprout and hold the soil over winter. It will be dead by spring and can be dug in to feed the soil for an extra burst of nutrition as it composts on the spot.

Darrell Feltmate is an avid gardener who has been composting and gardening for over 25 years with gardens up to 1/2 acre and compost piles for each. His composting site may be found at Compost Central. You can be a master composter in no time at all.

Much of his compost uses wood shavings from his wood turning hobby. The site for wood turning may be found at Around the Woods.

Plaster And Drywall Cracks

Monday, June 1, 2009

Bloombastic Hydroponic Nutrients

If you are looking for a versatile nutrient booster that will help your plants achieve more flowers and ripened fruit with a speed not normally seen, Bloombastic could be the nutrient for you. Produced by the B'Cuzz Company, Bloombastic, also known as Atami Bloombastic, is a wonderful nutrient additive that can be used in hydroponics, aeroponics or in traditional soil gardening.

If you are a commercial grower, you know that the sooner you can get a plant from seed to fully mature plant, the quicker you will realize a profit. Even if you are a home gardener, you look forward with fervent hope to the day your plants are mature and in full fig.

By using B'Cuzz Bloombastic, you can enhance your plants' growth processes. Taking a plant from a tiny seed and bringing it to full-fruit maturity is an amazing process, and one that can be hampered if the plant's basic needs for food, water and light are not adequately met. Bloombastic makes it easy to take care of the food portion of your plants' growth needs.

All plants need certain minerals in order to grow and thrive. The main nutrients needed are called macronutrients, and they are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Calcium, magnesium, and sulfur are also needed, and along with carbon, hydrogen and oxygen they make up the full spectrum of plant macronutrients. Plants also need micronutrients in, as the name would imply, smaller amounts for plant growth. Even though smaller quantities of these nutrients are needed by the plant, if the plant is missing any one of them they will not grow or thrive. Micronutrients include iron, boron, manganese, copper, chlorine, molybdenum and zinc.

Keeping track of all these minerals can be a full-time job, especially when you consider that certain plants need more or less of some of these in order to thrive, and plants need certain of the nutrients in greater amounts at specific times in their life cycles. You can go out and take soil samples and have them professionally tested, which is what professional farmers do, or you can purchase hydroponic nutrients that come preformulated for specific purposes. This provides a much easier solution to ensuring that your plants have everything they need for explosive growth.

If you wish to quickly grow pre-rooted cuttings, Bloombasticis perfectly suited to the task. It is also especially good at helping plants dramatically increase their root production. Atami Bloombastic can also be used to reduce the effects of certain soil contaminants which can disease your plants; it can also be used to help clean the dripper portion of your hydroponics system. For all these reasons, Bloombastic is a great choice for boosting your plants' vigor and growth.

Susan Slobac has a great deal of experience with the nutrient additive bloombastic. Hydroponic nutrient gardening is the way of the future. Known to some as "soil less gardening", hydroponics are proven to grow plants 20-30% faster than their soil grown counterparts.